Adkins studio Multi mug press and my first Mug

Hello Guys,

Just starting my mug printing business, and I have the following equipment:

Mug press: Adkins Studio Multi Mug
Printer: SG 400 with Sublijet HD cartridges
Transfer paper: Truepix paper
Mugs: Durham 11oz from Listawood (duraglaze)

Settings: (I have tried couple of settings within below ranges with more or less same results)
Time - 150 to 180 sec.
Temp - 165 to 180 deg
Pressure: Medium to firm

I'm trying to print a following design, design should have a black background, which is the biggest problem by far :).

http://www.dyesubforum.co.uk/vbforum...tid=4934&stc=1


Here is how the print out looks before sublimation:
http://www.dyesubforum.co.uk/vbforum...tid=4935&stc=1

Here is how the printout looks after sublimation:
http://www.dyesubforum.co.uk/vbforum...tid=4936&stc=1

Here is how the mug looks after sublimation:
http://www.dyesubforum.co.uk/vbforum...tid=4937&stc=1


So Black is actually Gray, and pink on the scissors is much to pale.


Any suggestions are welcome.



Best Regards,


Tomas

That 'before sublimation' printout looks terrible. Are you printing on the correct side of the paper? Are you using Sawgrass Powerdriver or an ICC profile?

Most sublimation on mugs is done at around 180 degrees C for around 180 secs.

Webtrekker,

Thanks for your help, didn't realise that there are 2 sides to sublimation paper :redface:.
After turning the paper around I used 180/180 and I got a perfect black.

The only issue remaining are the edges relatively close to the handle, they have bright-ish spots.

http://www.dyesubforum.co.uk/vbforum...tid=4938&stc=1
I tried different pressure settings, looks like more pressure the better, do you have any other suggestions??

Many mug presses don't do too well near the handle because the handle, and also the thick base of the mug, acts as a heat sink and draws heat away from the parts of the print nearest to them.

I get around this, to some extent, by pre-heating my mugs to 100 degrees C before the final press but, to be honest, if you want full coverage of the mug you'll be far better off reading the posts about silicone wraps and mug ovens. I can produce a nice, full wrap, from top to bottom and very near the handle, with no fading, using a silicone wrap (costs about a fiver from ebay) in my home kitchen gas cooker, or you can buy a halogen oven for around £30 to £60 to use as a dedicated mug oven.

Thanks again Webtrekker!!!

I have reduced the image area a little bit so its couple of mm further from the handle, and it looks almost perfect :)

At the end I was using following settings:

temp: 177
time: 180
and quite high/firm pressure.

reduce your pressure to medium/light and extend your time a little. let say 220sec for start. you don't need much pressure with mugs. just make sure mug doesn't move once clamped.

Thanks Paul,

I'll try it first thing in the morning, and will let you know how it went :).

Today I was experimenting with prolonging the time and reducing pressure.
At the end I got near perfect results with following settings:

Temp: 178 C
Time: 270 s
Pressure: medium to light

For other mug designs, without black background, 200 sec. was enough.


Thank you all for your help ;).

Bear in mind that as you use the mug press and it begins to "wear" you may have to up your pressure, time and temp.

Experience will teach you that when you get going

just jumping on this thread, I got the freesub double press and I was getting brown spots near the center after preheating for 10-15 secs at 180c, now I just wrap the mug with the print and bang the mug in the press without preheating at 170c for 180secs, by the time the mug heats up to press temp then counts down it's probably in there between 4-5 minutes and I get great prints now.