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  1. #11
    Senior Member webtrekker's Avatar
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    A multimeter would go a long way to answering some of your questions. Most 'old fashioned engineers' swear by them (and AT them!).

  2. The Following User Says Thank You to webtrekker For This Useful Post:

    decca591 (18-02-2017)

  3. #12
    Member decca591's Avatar
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    One other thought I had was that many presses have an integrated timer and controller, which could possibly account for the extra connections ?

    Decca.

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    Member decca591's Avatar
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    I do have a meter, naturally its down my workshop - will try to pop across tomorrow or bring it home Monday, along with my trusty 4lb lump hammer ;-)

    Decca

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    The photographs unfortunately don't shed any more light on the situation.

    The controllers will likely either be XMTE-2001 or XMTE-2002 - the difference is either a thermocouple or a resistance type temperature input.

    As long as both controllers have the same part number you'll be ok.

    The pinouts for your new controller are attached:-


    So input on terminals 13 & 14
    Output on terminals 9 & 10
    Temp pickup on terminals 1 & 2

    If a resistance type pickup - which I'd guess is most likely, then connections on 1 & 2 are not polarity conscious, if a thermocouple they will be.

    The fact that you have no pilot is indicative of a controller failure, though that may have been caused by the element failing!

    Probably worth doing a continuity & insulation & short circuit test on the element before risking the new controller...




    Edited to add:-

    Having looked again at the new photographs with my eyes switched on, I see that it's a XMTE-2301 - which is similar to the XMTE-2001 but with a time proportional output - maybe that means that it's a "learning" controller...

    As it also says it's for a type "k" thermocouple temperature pickup.

    There is little to be learned from what's left of the label on the old controller, but you can test the temperature probe by measuring its voltage output - about 1mV at 25°C, 4mV at 100°C and 8mV at 200°C - these are nominal figures as for them to be precise the "cold junction" of the thermocouple needs to be at 0°C, which isn't likely to be the case - but they are sufficient to check for a varying output if you should test the element by powering it up before installing the controller (providing that it heats up!).

    If there's no voltage output then it's either faulty too (unlikely?), it's not a thermocouple or else there's an issue with the test method/apparatus...
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by willd; 19-02-2017 at 10:23 AM.

  6. #15
    Member decca591's Avatar
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    Resistor ?

    Just a quickie, and one I should have asked earlier, in the centre of the old controller is a small resistor, neatly slotted into the middle between the connectors, this is not replicated on the new controller, but - in the box where I have all the bits for this project there is a round blue resistor that also goes with the new one, possible replacing the one on the old one ??

    Its there for a reason, my big brother has suggested this possibly goes across 1 & 2 - it has 3KV printed on it, any thoughts ?

    Decca

  7. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by decca591 View Post
    Just a quickie, and one I should have asked earlier, in the centre of the old controller is a small resistor, neatly slotted into the middle between the connectors, this is not replicated on the new controller, but - in the box where I have all the bits for this project there is a round blue resistor that also goes with the new one, possible replacing the one on the old one ??

    Its there for a reason, my big brother has suggested this possibly goes across 1 & 2 - it has 3KV printed on it, any thoughts ?

    Decca
    I deleted my previous post as I'd found further information - your blue component is in fact a thermistor, and should go between terminals 2 & 3, to allow for the "cold junction" temperature correction to be applied by the controller.

  8. #17
    Member decca591's Avatar
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    Thermistor

    Ok So this is where we are:

    The controller at least appears to be working, the Thermistor is where it should be and not in the box ;-), I turned the heat press on, controller lights up and registers current temp - cold

    Platen not heating up so ran 240 thru it direct (all other cables etc disconnected) result was that the heater immediately kicked in and the platen heated up ;-)

    re-cabled as per instructions - including our little blue friend, the thermistor, turned on, all works ok as far as the controller operating and registering new temp, following direct 240 test, so no problems there.

    only thing not kicking in is the transformer, no light on this, as I mentioned earlier in a post I had already ordered a replacement, if there truly is a god then that should arrive on the morrow and I can then try it !

    Once again thanks for all your input, we are getting somewhere, I have learned a lot from you guys, and hopefully someone else might benefit from these posts !!

    Any other ideas as to what could be preventing the transformer from working or could cause it to malfunction, perhaps the old controller caused a problem or vice versa, looks at moment like both components transformer and controller were iffy ?
    feel free to chip in, but for now - I will await the arrival of the new one to try ;-)

    Regards All

    Decca.

  9. #18
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    Where does the transformer sit in this setup ?

  10. #19
    Member decca591's Avatar
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    Controller, Transformer, Platen !

  11. #20
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    AH! Your transformer isn't actually a transformer, but as you previously noted an SSR, which is a solid state relay. I didn't pick this up until I read back through the thread, which was prompted by your reply to Wayupnorth, as it didn't make sense to me.

    In general SSRs have a pilot light to confirm that they have been triggered, which as you note, isn't showing.

    So I think it's pretty safe to surmise that that's where the fault is...

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