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Thread: At witts end.

  1. #1
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    At witts end.

    Iím using a Galaxy mug press with a Ricoh 3110 using Sublisplash inks.
    Ever time I set this up to use, the settings are different.
    I even went to the trouble of printing the previous settings on to the mug to keep as a reference.
    Again today, Iíve set up up using the settings. 150c resting temp. 165c cooking time and 100 seconds.
    Theses worked perfectly last time and now areas are paler than should be (although the correct colour, just pale), and looking patchy.
    Is there anything obviously I should be looking at?




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  2. #2
    Premium Member webtrekker's Avatar
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    I'd press at 180 degrees for 180 seconds as a starting point. I think 165 degrees is on the low side for sublimating mugs.

    BTW, are you positive your press is on degrees C and not F?


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    At witts end.

    Iíve checked the settings for C and F and itís definitely on C. Iíve found that anything over 175c is turning the blacks to brown. Iíve also seen this commented elsewhere. I believe it may be a difference with the ink being sublisplash rather than sawgrass.

    I will try changing the temperature up again, and see what happens.

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    Last edited by david418; 1 Week Ago at 06:40 AM.

  4. #4
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    Hi David, if you can send Adam an email adam@dyesublimationsupplies.co.uk he might be able to help you out with this it is sounding like a faulty press or wrap to me but he will be able to help you.
    steve

    Quote Originally Posted by david418 View Post
    I’ve checked the settings for C and F and it’s definitely on C. I’ve found that anything over 175c is turning the blacks to brown. I’ve also seen this commented elsewhere. I believe it may be a difference with the ink being sublisplash rather than sawgrass.

    I will try changing the temperature up again, and see what happens.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by DyeSubSupplies View Post
    Hi David, if you can send Adam an email adam@dyesublimationsupplies.co.uk he might be able to help you out with this it is sounding like a faulty press or wrap to me but he will be able to help you.
    steve
    Thanks. I do that today. I did originally have a faulty wrap, which would constantly rise 13c over the set temperature whilst pressing. If the press is faulty as well it would explain a lot.


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    Quote Originally Posted by david418 View Post
    I’ve checked the settings for C and F and it’s definitely on C. I’ve found that anything over 175c is turning the blacks to brown. I’ve also seen this commented elsewhere. I believe it may be a difference with the ink being sublisplash rather than sawgrass.

    I will try changing the temperature up again, and see what happens.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I use the sublisplash inks too, And the settings provided by DSS (and in webtrekkers comment) work for me - with the blacks coming out perfectly now I've sorted my double profiling issue (180deg/180s)

  7. The Following User Says Thank You to kbho For This Useful Post:

    DyeSubSupplies (1 Week Ago)

  8. #7
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    After advise from Adam I altered the settings and after testing again I started to think the mugs had been so cold the base hasnít been warming up sufficiently. The design Iíd been using had pale text at the bottom which just wasnít working taking correctly. I moved the image up and it worked much better, so the combination of the cold mug and the pale text may of been causing the issue.



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  9. #8
    Premium Member webtrekker's Avatar
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    I preheat my mugs to 110 deg C in another press before pressing at 180/180 in my main press, however, even then, I can't print too close to the top or bottom, or too near the handle. I now find silicone wraps in an oven a much better alternative to a mug press, especially when I need full-area images.


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    We use an Andrew James teppenyakki hotplate (cheap on Amazon and Ebay, or similar in Wilkos) to preheat heat mugs - can get 8 mugs comfortably on the £20ish model - which works well for 4 press heads - by the time you're pressing the next mug from the hot plate, it's had enough time to warm through nicely with the hot plate on a fairly minimal setting - I did have a spreadsheet detailing the timings for this setup for working out mug printing costings for most efficiency, but the tablet it was on got dropped by the MIL, and I've not had inclination to pull the SSD to recover.

  11. #10
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    I had tried preheating previously and this hadnít appeared to work, but this was when I was using the faulty element. I have to remember everything I thought Iíd learnt previously whilst using that element is necessarily correct.



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