I never said that you "should" but there is few post on here about ricoh that need bit lower temps as prints may look funny.
I never said that you "should" but there is few post on here about ricoh that need bit lower temps as prints may look funny.
Last edited by Paul; 14-10-2011 at 11:03 PM.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
<-- How To Print Stuff BLOG
Paul's right, in certain circumstances the blacks over cook and turn brown - its a gel ink which is different to the ink used in epson. Its worth a try dropping the temp!
Why are you using a profile, can you not use the powerdriver?
Are you printing the coasters print side up in relation to the platten or print side down?
Alex.
I'm printing with the print side up. Will they work print side down?
John -sorry, I am actually using the powerdriver
I've only ever done the wood ones so cannot really help - if the print on paper looks solid, and not washed out, then it's either the sub item or you heat press or platen.
not if it's wood. You can print ceramic or aluminium by heating through the back of the substrate - I was wondering if you were trying to do this with a blank that doesn't conduct heat well and hence the problem.
Alex.
Thank you to everyone who has had input with this. I have finally got it printing and looking good, but I did have to get rid of the black background. For starters, the black background wraps down the side of the coaster a little and looks bad. For anyone else trying to print on the polymer coasters, I was told to use 190-200C for 50-60 secs and I ended up using 175C for 3.5 mins. I am now using a white background with black and red text/images and they look great with the lower temp and long pressing.
I appreciate everyone's help! Now for a drink....it's saturday night after all;)
Is it me or is 3.5 mins long for a coaster.
Longer than a mug - that cannot be right!