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  1. #1
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    Trying to find a solution for iphone blanks corners... We can do it! :-)

    Hi guys!
    Week ago i finally got my brand new 3d sub vacuum machine ( https://www.whypayfullprice.com.au/u...566004_933.jpg )
    Everything is working fine, we are happy with the results for mugs and iphone covers; except the corners, we are having serious problems to get a PERFECT finish with regular sub paper.


    I have been reading forums and watching videos for hours and there are hundred of people with the same problem. In this forum i have seen a thread; but no solution was found...

    So im opening this one to try to find a collective solution or something like that.. :D

    1. Anybody gets a perfect finish with this machine and regular sublimation paper? In that case, is it possible uploading pictures or videos of the process?
    2. I have seen this video about using gold film... ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wK19xNA2xYA) It looks dangerous, but maybe is a good solution. Anybody tried i?

    Let see if we can find a solution to this little stupid problem. It shouldnt be a nightmare... We can do it! :D

    Regards
    Last edited by Justin; 20-04-2014 at 04:53 PM. Reason: Updated link
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  2. #2
    Administrator Justin's Avatar
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    Updated your link as you'd put the jpg link there again :-)

    Looks pretty straight forward, I mentioned in the PM about the frame to allow film being used. Do they sell these frames separately? This would app[ear to work fine. There you go, problem solved! lol.
    Membership scheme now available - Just £10 per year - Regular Supplier Discounts and Special Offers!

  3. #3
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    The company that makes that frame discontinued them, due to quality issues :(

  4. #4
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    In my opinion, iPhone corners are OK. If the design is rather messy with lots of colors, the corners will be barely noticeable...If it's white, it's also no problem since I would just tape the corners.

    The problem comes with light and flat color on the case...And don't get me started with the curvaceous corners of Samsung cases...

    I have a couple of the new machines coming in to test. In my opinion, there's no other solution for the corner but to use film...

  5. #5
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    I use gold film because I had concerns with corners - Details in last couple of pages of this thread: http://www.dyesubforum.co.uk/vbforum...settings/page2

    I've changed the way I lay the film now (i've made templates for each case so I know it's accurately centered but everthing else is same and I'm getting really good results including corners.

  6. #6
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    Good Afternoon Guys,

    We sell a foil based system here to avoid the issue you are discussing, this means you do not get any errors or wastage. It is also available on lease if you require, if anyone requires information just get in touch, my email is in the signature.

    Have a great bank holiday weekend.
    Regards Alastair @ Xpres
    Xpres Sublimation
    Powering Personalisation


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    Email me on
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    for equipment advice or quotes



  7. The Following User Says Thank You to Alastair@Xpres For This Useful Post:

    Kevdog (26-07-2016)

  8. #7
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    I've never had any problems with the corners on my vacuum-pressed phone cases since I sussed out the best way to produce them. At first, I was having blotchy results, pale results, warped cases... none of the videos I found could shed any light on the situation and got practically no help from the company I bought the press from. It meant that I literally had to just buy a load of cases with the specific purpose of wasting them through trial and error until I found the perfect way to produce them. Now I have no wastage, and no issues with faded/white corners AND there's no ink overspray on the inside of the cases either.

    Here's what I do:


    1. Set the press temperature to 200 degrees C
    2. Set the timer to the full twenty minutes
    3. Place whatever heating jigs I'm going to be using into the press
    4. Close the lid, clamp the vacuum part shut (prevents heat leakage when ajar)
    5. Start both heating elements and the timer
    6. In the meantime, I cut out whatever designs are going to be needed (with a 15mm bleed on each side to make sure that the facing 'edge' of the case doesn't remain white)
    7. Cut two strips of heat tape for each case at around 60-70mm each
    8. Turn the designs over so they have the back side (blank) facing upwards and put one piece of tape on the top, and the other on the bottom (the short edges)
    9. Flip them back over so that they're design-side up in readiness for the case
    10. At this point I actually put the cases on the design so that I can get the centering and alignment spot on
    11. Once the press starts to beep after the twenty minutes...
    12. Take out the jigs, and one at a time clip the jig into the respective case (still in situ from before)
    13. Hold down the top of the jig firmly while you pull the tape up so that it attaches to the top of the jig, both top and bottom
    14. Put them back in the press, activate the vacuum pump
    15. If need be, push the corners down a little while the vacuum is running if you can see any pinching of the paper
    16. Close it all up and let the timer go for 3.5 minutes
    17. Once they're done, I take them out and put them straight on to a dummy phone of that model (bought from the manufaturers) to get the perfect fit
    18. Drop it straight into a container of cold water and deal with the next one


    What I end up with is perfect cases every time. No problems with the corners whatsoever, and the design goes all the way up the sides AND on to the front edge so that there's no white edging around the phone as you look at it. There's also no image on the inside of the case, unlike all the videos who show you that you should tape the design to the case and fold it all in etc, so I have a QR code with my own logo on the inside of the case as branding but other than that it's 100% white and clean. And because I'm putting them straight on to the dummy phones (which are 1:1 scale of the original model) and into the water, there's no continuation of the sublimation - it ends immediately to produce sharp, vivid images.

    Hope this helps :)

    Mark

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by ArtyGamer View Post
    I've never had any problems with the corners on my vacuum-pressed phone cases since I sussed out the best way to produce them. At first, I was having blotchy results, pale results, warped cases... none of the videos I found could shed any light on the situation and got practically no help from the company I bought the press from. It meant that I literally had to just buy a load of cases with the specific purpose of wasting them through trial and error until I found the perfect way to produce them. Now I have no wastage, and no issues with faded/white corners AND there's no ink overspray on the inside of the cases either.

    Here's what I do:


    1. Set the press temperature to 200 degrees C
    2. Set the timer to the full twenty minutes
    3. Place whatever heating jigs I'm going to be using into the press
    4. Close the lid, clamp the vacuum part shut (prevents heat leakage when ajar)
    5. Start both heating elements and the timer
    6. In the meantime, I cut out whatever designs are going to be needed (with a 15mm bleed on each side to make sure that the facing 'edge' of the case doesn't remain white)
    7. Cut two strips of heat tape for each case at around 60-70mm each
    8. Turn the designs over so they have the back side (blank) facing upwards and put one piece of tape on the top, and the other on the bottom (the short edges)
    9. Flip them back over so that they're design-side up in readiness for the case
    10. At this point I actually put the cases on the design so that I can get the centering and alignment spot on
    11. Once the press starts to beep after the twenty minutes...
    12. Take out the jigs, and one at a time clip the jig into the respective case (still in situ from before)
    13. Hold down the top of the jig firmly while you pull the tape up so that it attaches to the top of the jig, both top and bottom
    14. Put them back in the press, activate the vacuum pump
    15. If need be, push the corners down a little while the vacuum is running if you can see any pinching of the paper
    16. Close it all up and let the timer go for 3.5 minutes
    17. Once they're done, I take them out and put them straight on to a dummy phone of that model (bought from the manufaturers) to get the perfect fit
    18. Drop it straight into a container of cold water and deal with the next one


    What I end up with is perfect cases every time. No problems with the corners whatsoever, and the design goes all the way up the sides AND on to the front edge so that there's no white edging around the phone as you look at it. There's also no image on the inside of the case, unlike all the videos who show you that you should tape the design to the case and fold it all in etc, so I have a QR code with my own logo on the inside of the case as branding but other than that it's 100% white and clean. And because I'm putting them straight on to the dummy phones (which are 1:1 scale of the original model) and into the water, there's no continuation of the sublimation - it ends immediately to produce sharp, vivid images.

    Hope this helps :)

    Mark
    Hi Mark,

    That's an awesome guide! What amazes me is no ink overspray on the inside of the cases which kinda drives me nuts and you don't have to cut the corners of the pictures.

    I reckon it would take skills to be able to clip the jig on the case and having it still perfectly aligned with the picture. In my experience, since the case is so light compared to the jig, it will easily shift. And to add to that, holding the jig at 190 C, even with thick welding glove, can still lightly scald your hand (no, no for workers).

    Anyway, awesome guide! Best of luck to you =)


    Jeremy

  10. #9
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    The overspray is the reason I didn't list any phone cases for months. I just didn't like that it made them look home-made, especially when I was selling them at a tenner each. I played around with trying to get the image the exact size and with the exact fit, but it never happened. That's when I thought "why not tape it to the case AFTER the jig has been added?" and that solved it. The cutting of the corners isn't necessary because you're not actually folding the design on to the case in any way... you're literally placing the case on to the design with the tape already in position, and because you've just peeled the protective film off the case it creates a static pull so that the paper design doesn't actually move easily. So when you're placing the jig inside the case (which really just falls into place anyway as the cases are larger than the jig until they're heated and shrink), it stays in the same position. I've not yet had any case shift while I've been adding the jig.

    As for the gloves...
    http://www.glovesnstuff.com/ATG-Maxi...x#.U2isd1fxet8

    Incredible. Very flexible so you lose absolutely no dexterity whatsoever, and I've even held the vacuum area open while I repaired the hose three times (it kept cracking as the heating elements were still on - I was in the middle of a job that had to get out that day) and never felt any heat coming through.

    If I can get someone to hold the camera, I'll try and make a video of the process so you can see the results.

  11. #10
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    Hi ArtyGamer, awesome guide. Cant wait to see the video.
    Do you have the orange peel problem like this http://www.dyesubforum.co.uk/vbforum...quality-issues ?
    All of my glossy case have this issue

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