Glad to help. Just remember these are 'my' experiences. Not everyone would agree with me. But at least if you don;t Like the Brother you've got an A3 printer AND you can scan with it. I even print wirelessly from my 10 iinch Android tablet to the Brother printers using the Brother printing app for Android.
You would be surprised how many useful little graphics apps are around for the Android, and what you can do with them even in a commercial sense. My Android tablets have more computing power and storage than the computers we used to use to print commercial jobs ten years ago!
I'm assuming you are working with graphic designs and text mostly. If you ever decide to work with transferring photos, either by Heat Transfer or by Dye Sub, feel free to let me know. I have learned a few very simple tricks that will save you hours in getting a photo to look really good for printing. And everyghing I do can be done with FREE software.
I use Linux, but just about every program I use can be got for Windows or Mac free and legal. GIMP for example does almost anything that Photoshop will do. Inkscape and Xara LX are free and do Vector graphics. ImageMagick lives in a world of its own. You write simple little scripts and it does everything while you make a coffee
For example, if I copy 4 photos from my camera to a folder and click a script I wrote to make Dye Sub prints for mugs (for a tourist area) I get this:
First it slices the four photos into the shape I use and it sticks them next to each other. Then it makes a text section and sticks that alongside and makes everything the exact size I need for a print to fit on a mug. I like a white border top and bottom on my mugs.
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Then the script continues and cuts through the haze that is just somethign my cameras do.
Next it makes all the details nice and sharp adds a bit of colour enhancement to work with the sublimation inks (weird saturations because I don't use an ICC profile).
So all I do is copy 4 photos to a folder and wait 2 minutes while everything is done for me. Then I come back and do a test mug. If I am happy with it, I give it a name and file it.
Then next time I want to do a mug of the same town, I just choose a new mix of photos. If I'm doing a different town, I edit one line of text in the script file.
It may not be useful for you - but click on each image and compare the original straight from the camera, and the second one after a simple enhancement. You'll see what I mean about making photo detail sharper. It is about 3 clicks in Photoshop or GIMP. The only reason I write programs to automate stuff is to save me mouse clicks :-)