artanium profile for epson 1290

[daviddeer]

I have an artanium ciss hooked up to my 1290 but the supplier gave me a generic Rotec profile with the ciss which is the same one found on the sawgrass website. It is not giving me the best results. The supplier also gave me a free custom profile created by an external company however this is worse than useless as it gives a great print ( an exact replica of my on screen image) but a lousy sublimation result. I know that the print should not really look like the on screen image for sublimation and the Rotec one certainly doesn't. The end result is that my prints are washed out or have subtle colour shifts especially in the magenta and blue areas. Rather than printing hundreds of mugs and shirts until the colour adjustments are right could anyone tell me where to obtain a proper sublimation profile for artanium uv inks on an epson 1290. I am at my wits end!!
I am using trupix paper on mugs and sublisoft shirts. As I can't find a better one.
Thanks in advance,
-David

[Justin]

Hi David and welcome to the forum :D

Have you looked here on the Sawgrass website? http://www.sawgrasseurope.com/technical ... c-profiles (http://www.sawgrasseurope.com/technical-support/artainium/icc-profiles)

This looks like Artainium 1290 profile. Might be an idea to check all of your settings as well. What software are you using to print? You can also find setup details on the Sawgrass site.

Justin

[daviddeer]

I am afraid I only use photoshop cs3 and illustrator cs3 as I have a loathing for corel draw. I have downloaded the profiles and found I had them already but they weren't showing in photoshop. I have reinstalled them and behold they have appeared. I will try them tomorrow and let you know how I get on.
Had a disastrous week. Got some mugs from keramikos after seeing them at the nec on the imageprint stand (funny how a company spends money promoting a product they stop selling after 4 weeks then refer me to another company giving me the name of someone who had left the second company). I think I pressed them with too much pressure as the glaze took a pattern from the fine mesh of the mug press and one of the mugs cracked the first time I washed it. I now have matt glazed mugs with a grain textured finish. I then tried some cheap placemats I got from a friend and the reds became violent orange together with the almost 90 degree curve they adopted after pressing. It wasn't until the third one that I realised that the plastic protective film was still on them. The workshop filled with acrid smoke and the paper wouldn't come off. The forth one didn't smoke so much but the colour was way off as before. So ploughed on with a different paper from a local company, the inks lacked depth and vibrancy, in fact they were pale beyond belief, the paper appeared the same on both sides (no shiny or glossy side) so I didn't know which side to print on. I started to think my eyesight was failing. I'm going back to trupix, despite the cost, at least I can tell which is the coated side.
Thanks for the help

[bms]

almost 90 degree curve they adopted after pressing.

Sounds like a nightmare! Re the placemats - always put them under something very heavy after pressing so they cool perfectly flat.

[daviddeer]

Tried the new profile and voila great looking images on the mugs, admittedly I changed back to trupix paper after the poor results from sublimation mug paper from a well known supplier. The pressure was lowered and no visible marks on the surface of the mug, will wash them tonight a few times to see if they crack.
The placemats I will try tomorrow, I hope the trupix will come up trumps for that. Don't want another batch of orange cherry blossom! I have a lovely antique 14lb weight that's been in the family for generations so that should sort the curling.
Let you know how I get on.
Darn.......just had an order for 4 framed giclées so the placemats will have to wait until Sunday.