Full Mug Wrap

[dj_doubler]

Hi all,

quick newbie question.... I am looking for the exact dimensions I will need to use to do a full mug wrap on BMS mugs.... so I can cover from top to bottom

Anthony

[logobear]

Why not measure with a ruler? Then add a bit for bleed.
Full wrap are a challenge, you need to pre heat the bottom as the extra ceramic sucks the heat out resulting in incomplete transfere.
We don't offer it as you will get a lot of waste.

[dj_doubler]

Why not measure with a ruler? Then add a bit for bleed.
Full wrap are a challenge, you need to pre heat the bottom as the extra ceramic sucks the heat out resulting in incomplete transfere.
We don't offer it as you will get a lot of waste.

I am making mug template designs at the moment... I will be ordering my kit this Monday... just trying to get everything in place ready for when I start practicing

Anthony

[Justin]

If its the smaller European mug I print at 200mm x 92mm, cut right along the edge of the print or as close as possible and it should fit perfect. I print right to the bottom so the transfer aligns to the bottom of the mug easily but leave a very small gap at the top so the image doesn't wrap over the top lip as this can sometimes look a bit patchy :-)

[dj_doubler]

If its the smaller European mug I print at 200mm x 92mm, cut right along the edge of the print or as close as possible and it should fit perfect. I print right to the bottom so the transfer aligns to the bottom of the mug easily but leave a very small gap at the top so the image doesn't wrap over the top lip as this can sometimes look a bit patchy :-)

Cheers Justin - Ill give it a blast when I get my kit from BMS

[Lee]

I have just printed 4 to order, and I have to say I did wate a few by trying to print 220mm wide.... I found that even swopping the mug around half way through (gr8 tip from Kaz, I think) didnt do enough to print the bottom solidly enough - and then I bumped the heat up, which caused brown spotting! The end result was that I now print 210x90mm, and still swop the mug around half way through the timer counting down - that way all 4 mugs came out great! Phew!

[smitch6]

yes most ppl leave a 5mm gap top and bottom including me
i'm having problems with handles at the min
done a couple of mugs for someone and the images were quite large width ways
so had to find a happy medium with smaller images height way but still look ok but try not to get it too close to the handle that it didn't take

does that make sense? lol
basically anywhere near the handle and the ink is really faded, worse than top and bottom in my opinion

[AdamB]

I also use a template with about the same size (210x90mm) but this goes straight in my press, no changing around half way through though.

I have found that making sure the bottom of the mug is in the blanket as much as possible helps (if this makes sense - the mug is not prefectly central in the press with more space on the bottom side to get more heat to it - but the top is still in the press).

[Lee]

I guess because the handle area is exposed then the heat lost there causes the fading... top and bottom seems okay at 90mm though, but I have got into the habbit of swopping the mug half way through though..

[Dekzion]

The standard pre-cut wraps are great for everyday use but Ricohs don't print borderless, I wanted full depth prints the other day so printed on a full A4 then cut it out around 10mm deeper.
Using a mug press meant that I needed to heat the bottom first so just dropped my swingaway on it and left it for about 5 minutes to heat up. Pressed as normal in my press.
BMS mugs and BMS press.http://www.dyesubforum.co.uk/vbforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4246&stc=1

[Justin]

Great post but this thread is over 5 years old, better to start afresh :-)