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DY357LX
26-04-2012, 08:19 PM
Hi all

A friend of mine recently picked up a Ricoh GXe3300n printer and CoralGraph mug press but we're struggling to get decent results.
(I'm not sure of model number for the mug-press. I think it's this one: http://www.coralgraph.com/heat-press1/mug-press/coral4-mug-press-heat-press-transfer-machine - I'll update tomorrow when I'm infront of it.)

Here's the current process + info, if anyone could point out where we're going wrong we'd be most appreciative.

Firstly, we create the design in CorelDraw X5. Then we export it to a .png or .jpg and use IrfanView to make x2 of the same image on one sheet. (IrfanView has a "create new panoramic image" feature that's quite useful. And saves a bit of paper.)
We then load Photoshop CS4 up because it alters the colours using the PowerDriver profile that this forum recommended and then we print the design out.

Next we insert the mug and set the mugpress to 160 degrees C with a time of around ~150 seconds. (We're still experimenting with times and temperatures. The manufacturers (pigeon-english) instructions say 180C and 170 seconds but
that always seems to make the blacks turn browny-grey. Which apparently means they're burnt.)

At the moment, all the mugs are coming out with faded colours and the blacks, in particular, looking browny-grey/burnt.

I'll spend a few hours this evening searching these forums for similar issues but if anyone can guide us with settings etc that'd be great.
My 2 main questions are simply:
How important is having Photoshop + the printer determine the colours? I personally think they looks rather faded but my friend insists they're supposed to be like that and the heat-process will fix it.
Secondly, are we supposed to be heating the CoralGraph up to a certain temperature (without a mug?) before placing in the mug + design we wish to create?

Thanks again.

I'll forward this topic to my friend (who's already a member) and he can fill in any info that I may have missed.

letsgo
26-04-2012, 08:28 PM
have you set the profile in photoshop to working rgb as reccomended by sawgrass.
Are you printing image on correct side of subi paper
also have you read through the notes on sawgrass website.
Not sure about your press but we always preheat the press with a dud mug then press 180 for 180 secs the come out perfect plus are the mugs you are pressing onto not to cold and is the pressure on the press correct.

Paul
26-04-2012, 08:37 PM
How important is having Photoshop + the printer determine the colours? I personally think they looks rather faded but my friend insists they're supposed to be like that and the heat-process will fix it.
Secondly, are we supposed to be heating the CoralGraph up to a certain temperature (without a mug?) before placing in the mug + design we wish to create?

Thanks again.

I'll forward this topic to my friend (who's already a member) and he can fill in any info that I may have missed.


1st. nope. you dont need photoshop if you use powerdriver. you can print straight from irfanview or any other graphic software.

2nd. your friend is right :)
colors will apear "normall" when heated :D

all the best

PAul

DY357LX
26-04-2012, 08:49 PM
have you set the profile in photoshop to working rgb as reccomended by sawgrass.
Yes. I double-check it everytime I'm about to hit Print.


Are you printing image on correct side of subi paper
We're pretty sure we are. He does the "lick finger and thumb, touch paper, paper stays stuck to correct side" test.


also have you read through the notes on sawgrass website.
Hmm, no. I'll check through that in the morning when I'm at the pc + press.


Not sure about your press but we always preheat the press with a dud mug then press 180 for 180 secs the come out perfect plus are the mugs you are pressing onto not to cold and is the pressure on the press correct.
What's your pre-heat process? Do you aim for a certain temp or just leave it switch on for X minutes?
The mugs are definately in a cold-ish environment as it's warehouse based. No sure how we'd get around this.
As for pressure on the press... I guess we'll have to experiment with this tomorrow. Any tips/pointers?

DY357LX
26-04-2012, 08:52 PM
1st. nope. you dont need photoshop if you use powerdriver. you can print straight from irfanview or any other graphic software.

2nd. your friend is right :)
colors will apear "normall" when heated :D

all the best

PAul

Thanks for the info, Paul.
The reason I haven't been printing with Irfanview is because the colours in it's preview are definitely different than those in Photoshop. I'm not sure Irfanview is using (or can use) the PowerDriver profile.
I'll investigate tomorrow when am the main machine.
Thanks again.

bms
26-04-2012, 08:54 PM
I would say your temp is too low. Set the temp to 170 and press for around 120-140 seconds, possibly lower depending on how your press works.

Powerdriver adjusts your colours when you print, so you need to print to PowerDriver (not to the Ricoh printer) and you can print from anything.

bms
26-04-2012, 08:56 PM
Thanks for the info, Paul.
The reason I haven't been printing with Irfanview is because the colours in it's preview are definitely different than those in Photoshop. I'm not sure Irfanview is using (or can use) the PowerDriver profile.
I'll investigate tomorrow when am the main machine.
Thanks again.

Powerdriver isn't a profile. You need to look at the user guide for printing with Powerdriver from this link...
http://www.sawgrasseurope.com/technical-support/sublijet-r

Paul
26-04-2012, 09:26 PM
yep :) if you use powerdriver dont use profile.

DY357LX
27-04-2012, 02:34 PM
Thanks for the info everyone.
I'm currently working through this documentation:
http://sawgrasseurope.indigofiles.com/technical_support/sublijetr/gxe3300n_graphics_win/CorelDRAW_X5_GXe3300N.pdf
(Sawgrass WinProfile for our printer.)

I changed all the settings as instructed but when I get to:

5 - Select the appropriate sublimation ICC profile from ‘Correct colors using color profile:’.
the file simply isn't there. I've closed the program and re-opened it. I've done the step-by-step again and
saved it under a different name but, still, the file isn't listed where it's supposed to be.
I've used Windows Search to attempt to find the custom profile file but Windows can't find it.
CorelDraw doesn't give me an option of where to save the file, it just asks for a name.

Anyone got an ideas or can upload their file with the same settings?

Thanks.

bassqee
27-04-2012, 05:53 PM
theres no need for using the icc profiles if your using windows - power driver does it all for you instead, just print to powerdriver.

If you do want to do the profile way - download the icc profile from sawgrass http://sawgrasseurope.com/technical-support/sublijet-r/power-drivers-icc-profiles

DY357LX
28-04-2012, 02:12 AM
theres no need for using the icc profiles if your using windows - power driver does it all for you instead, just print to powerdriver.

If you do want to do the profile way - download the icc profile from sawgrass http://sawgrasseurope.com/technical-support/sublijet-r/power-drivers-icc-profiles

Ahh, I see. Thanks for the info!

At the moment we're still trying to get the time + temperatures (+mug-hold pressure) correct. Things are looking up slightly, here's some photos from today:
http://i.imgur.com/wLEVB.jpg - Colours faded, horizontal lines, edges only 60% done.
http://i.imgur.com/IAQuN.jpg - Closer look at the edges + horizontal lines.
http://i.imgur.com/wLEVB.jpg - Closer look at fader colours.
http://i.imgur.com/rPSp6.jpg - Blacks look off, SEGA logo is blurred/distorted.
(Not the best pics ever but they show what's wrong + where.)

Common problems:
1: Black colours are appearing brown/burnt.
2: Vertical lines (I think increasing the heat removes these but results in #1)
(I think video-game prints are great for testing as it's easy to see where the colours are off.)

I have the numbers (times + temps) written down by the printer but not to hand. I'll edit them into this reply when I can.

Any suggestions guys? Recommended times and temps from a fellow Ricoh GXe3300n user would be great. Fine-tuning the handle/mug-grip is obviously not so easy.

Thanks again.

Progress is (slowly) being made, we'll get there in the end!

DY357LX
04-05-2012, 05:05 PM
Just updating you all.
Progress has been made!

Turns out the sub-paper was shoddy. We ordered new stuff from BMS (I think that's what they're called) and things are much better.

We're still working on making the edges smooth. (They look a little distorted/blurred on the final cups.)

Thanks for all the input.