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View Full Version : Black looks faded and streaky help plz



SHrek1802
20-03-2010, 01:09 PM
Hi there I have just started to use my mug press and using the setting of 180oc and 3 mins but the black ink seems to be left more on the paper than the mug and is faded and got lines though it.

What pressure should i set it to and any help would be great

Thanks

Doug

bms
20-03-2010, 01:38 PM
Mug press should be tight so the mug can't move, temp around 180 -190 degrees for 3-3.5 minutes. Can you post back what mug press,paper, inks and which mugs you're using and also a pic would help.

Andrew
20-03-2010, 02:07 PM
As Martin says, knowing what ink, mugs and press you have would help. For a start I would saying putting your temp up to 195-200 would help. If when you say it is "streaky" I am assuming these are lines going down the mug. This is often when not enough heat is getting through. All presses need to be tweaked on trial and error to find what works best for you. Sounds like insufficient heat and possibly pressure if lots of ink left on the paper and streaks. More info will give a better indication though.

SHrek1802
20-03-2010, 02:18 PM
The mug press was from ebay It only has number wl-13d on it the inks are from Pro Print, Mugs from love cut they are 10oz whats the best size image for a full wrap around please. The paper is from a company called www.funkyleopard.co.uk (http://www.funkyleopard.co.uk) hope all this info helps. Turn the temp up to 200oc see what happens any help is great thanks guy and gels

Andrew
20-03-2010, 02:41 PM
The ink you have looks to be for large format printers and formulated for textile printing. Whilst it will print onto hard substrates it might not be ideal. Don't know anything about that company or ink they have. If you have a desktop printer then using these inks is actually illegal as Sawgrass hold the patent/monopoly. With using Sawgrass you do get the back-up of correct software for print management. Unfortunately, often buying cheap and off ebay can lead to problems. Sublimation done correctly can be quite complex and requires the correct printer/inks/software/presses/paper/ coated items plus relevant knowledge.

I am sure you'll get help to get you on the correct track here so feel free to ask away. A full list of brand names and items such as printer being used will help to see if there are any key issues.

Good luck

SHrek1802
20-03-2010, 03:00 PM
I am using a Epson P50 printer and never new about the ink just bought it.

frizbee
20-03-2010, 03:09 PM
Do the line go all the way round the mug in vertical stripes, or is it only near the handle?

To sizes, you can print up to 230mm but it is very difficult to go past 190 with a budget mug press and to be honest to go past that is easier to us a cactus wrap in an oven and you can get up to 220 even 230 on a good day, but you need good mugs, don't always believe suppliers claims about quality, there are many on here who can point you in the right direction on suppliers.

Andrew
20-03-2010, 03:21 PM
No worries. I know nothing about the P50 and sublimation but perhaps Martin at BMS will be able to fill in the gaps there. When starting out in sublimation you are always going to need support to get upand running correctly. Forums like this are great but using a tried and tested supplier for all of your information is key. Further down the line you can try out your options but getting a key supplier who will make sure you have the right items and then more importantly give you the back-up support is key. There are only a few I would reccomend but none more than Martin at BMS and you will find many on here who will say the same.

Back to your mug..... have you tried a higher temp? When you shut the press you should be able to do it with one finger but the mug should be gripped securely which then exerts even and sufficient pressure.

accdave
20-03-2010, 03:34 PM
The P50 is a standard desktop photo printer, as far as I know not supported for sublimation. Looked at the pro priint website and can't see that they sell sublimation ink either.

bms
20-03-2010, 05:18 PM
The P50 isn't a supported printer and an ICC colour correction profile isn't available for this model. From the sounds of it the problem could be any factor, but assuming some ink is getting onto the mug then it could be a problem with either the paper releasing the ink (temp/time increase may help) or the mugs (would need to see a pic of the mug to help further here as it would be useful to see what the lines are and where they are). Is the paper also creased or is there a crease in the mug blanket?

Perhaps someone can help re uploading pics here - how is this done? I see there is an Img link but what do you put in this to get a pic up on the forum? Can someone post an example?

Reg
20-03-2010, 06:28 PM
I have senko wl-13d purchased from ebay and found it could not get enough pressure so I got a slightly longer adjusting bolt made and I found using 185c temp timing at 210 sec and 10oz mugs are better than 11oz mugs now I get much better finish.

SHrek1802
21-03-2010, 01:50 AM
I have increased the temp to 200oC and time of 3.5mins and it work for 1 mug will try another tomorrow and keying all no. would like to thank all for your replies and will update tomorrow.

SHrek1802
22-03-2010, 10:08 PM
I have cranked the temp to 200oC and the time is 3.5mins and now its working got some cracking images done working really well and would like to thank everyone for there help.

Thank you

Andrew
23-03-2010, 12:13 AM
Dark and bold colours often struggle on the lower temp range. I go with 200c as standard. You might be able to getaway with a slightly shorter time but depends on the efficiency of your press. Trial and error will be the only way to find out though.

SHrek1802
23-03-2010, 06:17 PM
Do u print with photo or Best Photo for the best results and do u find that the dark part of the images are not always clear I mean u cant see all the detail. Thanks

Andrew
23-03-2010, 08:59 PM
This is going to be one of your problems in not having the correct printer which means also not having the correct software. Sawgrass who own the patent for small format subli have created software which ensures perfect-ish prints on the supported printers. Without this type of set-up you will only be able to get very limited help with probably limited results. As most users on here would have specific software/profiles relating to their printer and ink set, it is unlikely you will get anyone with direct knowledge of what you are trying to achieve. It will be largely trial and error for you to try and find if you can get your printer and relevant software to achieve a decent standard for dye sub. It's unchartered territory unfortunately.

SHrek1802
23-03-2010, 10:21 PM
I was thinking of gettin a custom ICC to see if that will help for now and when I get the money I want one of the Epson 1400 as they look good printers.

Andrew
23-03-2010, 11:57 PM
Well you have something to play around with currently which will help you decide how much you want to invest in sublimation. Keep an eye on ebay as well as bargains often come about.