cooling mugs

[frazzle]

I read somewhere on this forum to cool down mugs by water or fan, i done one yesterday and it cracked when in the water which don't surprise me, why do you need to cool them down.

[CarArtz Dave]

I spent months religiously cooling my mugs in warm water (so they didn't crack). Turns out you don't need to cool them, unless you need to package them up quickly, lol.

They WILL hurt if you pick up a hot one I suppose ;)

[Renniwano]

I use a fan.. have never 'dunked'

[bms]

I spent months religiously cooling my mugs in warm water (so they didn't crack). Turns out you don't need to cool them, unless you need to package them up quickly, lol.

Not so really.

This has been discussed many times before - try typing in 'dunking mugs' in the search box...

[frazzle]

Not so really.

This has been discussed many times before - try typing in 'dunking mugs' in the search box...

Thats why i did not find it in the search i put cooling mugs.

[WorthDoingRight]

The reason for cooling the mugs is to drop the temperature of the mug below the temperature at which the dye sublimates to stop the dye on the mug migrating under the heat. So really even boiling water is cool enough to stop that from occuring. However I have never seen any of my items migrate to an extent that I have noticed and it does not take a mug out of a press long to cool anyway. I am sure more mugs are rendered useless through thermal shock than through dye migration.

[Justin]

I know we've discussed this before but I'll add my opinion to this thread anyway. I've always dunked in room temp water as I have noticed a slight bleed when I've run tests on mugs left to air cool. I know some members get good results from fan cooling but this isn't something I've tried yet.

It probably depends on the usual factors, ink type, mug type, air temp etc. Print a couple and dunk one, air cool the other and then compare :-)

[gorgall2]

Always dunked in warm water, originally because of ink migration, but also to stop accidentally brushing against a hot mug.

[WorthDoingRight]

Always dunked in warm water, originally because of ink migration, but also to stop accidentally brushing against a hot mug.

I always try to cool mine down using a fan as I am always brushing my arm or hand against my mugs by accident and a hot one hurts!

[socialgiraffe]

Hi there

I have never used any cooling method, mugs are normally ready to be packed within 15 minutes max if left alone.

[jennywren]

I cool with fan, when I cooled in warm water the inside had lines appear when the made a cup of tea or coffee. its in one of the threads I think started by me

[Scotty@BMS]

I agree with Simon, but if I was to dunk it would be in near boiling hot water.

[Craig]

I do not use any cooling just print and leave to cool and have not had any issues(touch wood)

[mgibbs]

I dunk in warm water now.

I used to get ink bleeds (fuzzy edges) on too many mugs when left to air cool.

Mark

[socialgiraffe]

One thing to note when leaving to air cool is that I have had a situation where I was putting the mugs too close together when cooling. Basically they were touching and what was happening is that the image of the mug that had just come out of the press was also transferring over to a mug that had been sitting there for 5-10 minutes and subsequently printing a very light image on that mug as well.

Air cooling has always worked for me but I now make sure there is about 5mm plus between each mug.

[meldean]

im a hot water dunker and not cracked one yet.... gives me a chance to give them a quick clean before i ship them out...

[Charlie_]

I have to admit to air cooling myself, never had a problem.

[logobear]

Air,
only ever had problems with water, - cracked handles, crazing inside, or just getting things wet that should be dry, - simpler is better for me !

[GoldRapt]

Hmm, TMT states for my HTP 616 Plus,that after cooling the mug goes back on a lower heat (so that the picture gets re-glazed?) I take it you chaps don't do this second heating?

[Charlie_]

Hmm, TMT states for my HTP 616 Plus,that after cooling the mug goes back on a lower heat (so that the picture gets re-glazed?) I take it you chaps don't do this second heating?

nope they are well glazed when cool imho

[logobear]

Hi Goldrapt, - is this instruction not for CMP/laser mugs?
I use TMT product, and have never re-cooked any sub product.

[GoldRapt]

Ah, you might be right. hang on

[GoldRapt]

No sound on this coputer (wife watching x factor ! )
Yes my paper was CP.
Isnt this for all types though?
http://www.themagictouch.co.uk/acatalog/mugs.htm

(is vid allowed please Justin?)

[bms]

No sound on this coputer (wife watching x factor ! )
Yes my paper was CP.
Isnt this for all types though?
http://www.themagictouch.co.uk/acatalog/mugs.htm

(is vid allowed please Justin?)

CPM paper is a laser product for hard surfaces like ceramics. The paper and toner then basically sticks to the outside of the mug which is different to sublimation so you will have to do something else (like you say) to try to get it more glossy but the gloss effect of sublimation is immediate.

[IPM]

from my experience I always remove the print, then dunk into room temp' water and leave in until cold to touch. Had one or 2 crack but have printed 100's so not a bad 'return' in my book. Have left them to air cool and noticed some slight bleeding on ocassions so I'm a dunker !!:wink:

[bigj2552]

never used the dunking method. Always used this rather large fan lol.
Mugs sit on table to right of fan, on top of a old mouse mat.
never had any crack or bleed so far.

cools anything down quickly this thing does, and even blow dry's my dam hair if i wanted :tongue:

1290

works for me....maybe a bit OTT, but what the hell :cool: