https://www.ascateringsupplies.com/c...3D%5D%5B0%5D=1Quote:
Originally Posted by socialgiraffe
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https://www.ascateringsupplies.com/c...3D%5D%5B0%5D=1Quote:
Originally Posted by socialgiraffe
We ran 72 LW mugs through and got consistent fading across 90% of them. Other mugs, no fading so it's not the oven or the wraps......
Simon, do you think it would be better with racks rather than trays to allow better airflow?
I run on racks because my trays became so damaged it was easier to use a sheet of paper than the tray :-)Quote:
Originally Posted by Justin
My racks are pretty lethal so am going to grab four of the proper ones as posted by GoonerGary
Having said that I am not currently using LW mugs. I got a batch where the taper at the bottom was very significant, when I raised this with LW they sent out replacements straight away (usual top customer service from them), but the replacements were exactly the same so I had to switch as I just wasn’t getting the results.
I would love to switch back and would in a heartbeat if the taper had gone, but I noticed a post (on here I think) making the same observation so I am going to stay away for a wee bit longer.
It’s a shame as they have the best coating (by a country mile) it’s just falling a wee bit short on the physical item at the moment.
You could trying running with just six mugs per tray at the same time and temp, that might help.
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I had a batch of Orca which faded badly...these were tapered. Listawood mugs I've always had problems with a lower taper.Quote:
Originally Posted by Justin
At my 160 degree temperature, I would have to change the time depending on the mug used. So 16-18 mugs at a time is Orca AAA 19 mins ( an extra minute if the design is dark brown or dark green), 5013 mug 20 mins and Listawood AAA at 22-23 mins. I put this down to the hardness/ quality of the coating perhaps?
I bough the wire rack to do bottles and lay them flat down (hopefully). But I don't have issues with the normal flat trays. I leave my mugs on the trays for 15-20 mins after taking them out of the oven. Then remove the transfers when cool...just as sharp, but easier to handle.
Yes we found we had to increase the temp but still didn't help the fade.
The easiest way to find out if the mug has a taper is to hold it down on a table and try to rock the mug about. You'll hear it moving around. Even with my current batch of Orca, I'll get a few misprints..and sure enough the mug is all shapes, with a dent in the middle somewhere. I don't think wraps are very forgiving of uneven mugs...although upon reflection...I couldn't print Listawood mugs on Adkins mug presses either when I had them.
Out of interest, what paper are you using?Quote:
Originally Posted by Justin
I would recommend a 115gsm or even lighter if you can. You need the flexibility if there is a taper, the problem is that a lighter weight will have more “reverse” bleed on to the wraps meaning finer tuning of the time and temp.
For a taper issue I would recommend increasing time, not temperature.
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Apologies, we did extend time as mentioned above not temp ;-)
Best solution was to return to better quality mugs.
I hadn't considered paper type before. 120 gsm S Race paper is the only paper I find agrees with my 1500W printers. Truepix is 110 gsm but smudges ink at the edges. Any other paper?Quote:
Originally Posted by socialgiraffe
Try the Subli Versa from Ink Experts. I have found that to be a very good all rounder. Best option would to ask IE for samples of their three types. Alex and Co are top notch and will send you a few sheets to try out.Quote:
Originally Posted by GoonerGary
However, I gave my 1500w away because it was so fussy with paper types so you might be on a losing battle there.
I often found that the heavier weight papers and not great with wraps as they are not as flexible. It’s too stiff to allow the wrap to “mould” properly in my opinion.
Don’t forget that the thinner the paper the more critical the time and temp becomes.
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