Applying graphics onto 2D wood figures (help needed)

Hi, I've been playing with some new product ideas with two of my main stockists and we have developed some 2D timber figure concepts. You will get a set of two figures in a pair, a tall figure and a short figure, illustrated below in a dummy mock showing a ‘Ghost catcher’ and ‘Ghost’. (This is an 18mm oak with a clear matt printed sticker finish, unvarnished)

I am currently still trialling different timber types & thicknesses (15/18mm Oak hardwood or white birch ply are the current best results) and I am keen to explore various methods for applying the images, through clear printed sticky sheets, laser etched, hand painted, decals, screen printed and heat transferred.

Ideally I'd like to be in the position that I can mass produce the timber figure sets and then make and apply the graphics to order from a collection characters.

Currently I only have an Aficio SG 3310DN sub-printer and a mug press so I don’t think I have suitable tools to tackle on my own.

I am considering investing in some other bits of kit but I suspect to get the strong depth of colour that I am thinking of, I'll have to look at investing in a white toner printer as well as a flatbed heat press. I’d really like the effect that you get from screen printing, ie just the ink, no substrate layer on the surface of the wood but if possible for this to be created digitally so I can replicate it on a one by one basis.

I’ve never actually worked with a white toner printer or really seen the results, so before making the investment and to allow me to gauge the interest from my stockists I’d like to work with someone to produce a few sets of the characters and see what quality/ style we can achieve.

Anyone on here fancy being involved in making the test products for me?

Also, does anyone, who has applied graphics onto timber, have any tips for the best method?

Any and all comments and suggestions are very welcome.

If the concept can be made to work then the two stockists would like me to produce other shapes like kids concept jigsaws and building blocks.

Think there is good potential here for some nice products.

Many thanks

Allistair

http://www.dyesubforum.co.uk/vbforum...tid=4614&stc=1

My lovely new UV printer would do a great job on these.......but I don't have it yet! Sorry!

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Originally Posted by Justin

My lovely new UV printer would do a great job on these.......but I don't have it yet! Sorry!

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Ooh, lucky you. A shame you don't have it yet.

When are you getting it? Maybe something we could chat about when you do?

I'd like to say weeks but in reality it'll probably be months.

I've tried heat-pressing JetPro Opaque II transfers, inkjet printed and cut on my contour cutter, onto wood and they work fine. A coat or two of gloss over the top enhances the colours, protects the prints from scratches and UV, and allows them to be wiped clean.

The JetPro paper can also be pigment- or sublimation-printed.

There is a new paper developed by The Magic Touch specifically for this. I do not remember the name but the code is 9.1

Might be worth giving that a go.

You will require a laser printer (OKI) but if you contact TMT they will be more than happy to send you printed samples to see if it works before investing.

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Originally Posted by socialgiraffe

There is a new paper developed by The Magic Touch specifically for this. I do not remember the name but the code is 9.1

Might be worth giving that a go.

You will require a laser printer (OKI) but if you contact TMT they will be more than happy to send you printed samples to see if it works before investing.

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Looks good, SG. Here's a video of it. It's not in English, but the spray is just water ...


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BxFW...A#t=115.783229


Here's an, admittedly rushed, attempt at using JetPro Opaque II transfer paper from Yolo on a scrap piece of wood, heat pressed at 175 deg for 30 secs. I covered it with a teflon sheet which maybe I shouldn't have done as it has left a textured pattern in places, particularly the hair, where the wood was also a bit uneven.

However.................... it worked!

http://www.dyesubforum.co.uk/vbforum...tid=4616&stc=1

Close up, with some lacquer applied ...

http://www.dyesubforum.co.uk/vbforum...tid=4617&stc=1


Ok, definitely some more experimentation needed, but at least you don't need an OKI and white toner (this was printed on a Canon inkjet with dye inks) and I think you'll agree the whites are white. No good if you want the wood to show through though. You can also use sublimation inks.

Teh JetPro Opaque II transfer paper looks perfect in my opinion.

Colours may not be right just now, but they are close enough to say it will work with some proper profilling

i guess you will be best getting the shapes cut first, - laser? - farm out or pay £10k
CPM through the Oci c711w printer and a good heat press - adkins will do the job.
The Magic Touch will do you a demo - just ask
This setup will cost you about £3500 so you need to be sure of yourself?

For simple figures like these you could cut them in no time with a bandsaw, scrollsaw or router (using a template). Much cheaper than a laser cutter.

If you're planning on lacquering them then maybe waterslide decals would be another option. Even a cheap Cameo can contour cut decals.

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Originally Posted by webtrekker

Ok, definitely some more experimentation needed, but at least you don't need an OKI and white toner (this was printed on a Canon inkjet with dye inks) and I think you'll agree the whites are white. No good if you want the wood to show through though. You can also use sublimation inks.

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How do you use these papers with sublimation inks? I assume you can only press onto a polyester garment. I have looked on the YOLO site and it does say suitable for sub inks but not how to use them.

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Originally Posted by Quinsfan

How do you use these papers with sublimation inks? I assume you can only press onto a polyester garment. I have looked on the YOLO site and it does say suitable for sub inks but not how to use them.

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I believe the layer you print on is a thin layer of polyester, meaning you can use sublimation inks which will sublimate into this layer when heated and leave you with a colourful image. The print itself will, of course, appear as the usual dull, wrongly-coloured print typical of, say, mug wraps, before they are pressed.

The thin polyester layer, in the case of the SofStretch appears white when printed on but turns perfectly clear when pressed. In the case of the Opaque II paper the layer is white and stays white in the unprinted areas, making it suitable for dark backgrounds.

Oops! I don't think I explained that very well! The sublimation prints will be dull BEFORE pressing, as in a mug wrap, but turn out fine once pressed.

sub inks will sub onto all sorts of things, - they just don't wash unless bonded to polyester .... don't imagine you will machine wash your wooden toys often thou ....

Hi Allistair,

If you do decide to invest in a flat bed heat press the C119 clear self adhesive polyester film for Sublimation printing which we have available may be of interest to you. Please click on the link below to access further details

http://www.isub-supplies.co.uk/clear...lear-glue.html


If it will help I can post a sample out to you.

Kind regards

Sarah

Oh thanks so much for getting back to me, apologies I didn't respond. I got notifications about Justin's messages but not for any others.

It was only when I logged onto the page today to try and give it a little bump that I saw everyone's replies.

I'll have a good read through everyone's comments just now.

Yeah, I have a friend who runs a business with a CNC router so the cutting of the shapes shouldn't be too bad. Its just the applying of the images that I'm currently struggling to get right.

The stockists are interested in an almost screen printed like quality. Ie printed onto the wood but as you say above that set up required for that is expensive. Think the only way to test it out is to get paper in for all the options you outline and trial. Unless anyone is interested in running through their equipment for me? (I don't have a flat bed press at the moment.)

Think a final coat of varnish/ lacquer will definitely be needed.