A few questions for experienced sublimators...

Hi All,

I have just decided to make my first steps in the Dye Sublimation world and have purchased some truly awesome machinery to help me with this:

Ricoh SG3110Dn
Stahls automated heat press

I have decided to start my venture in what I assumed was the comparatively easier side of sublimation in printing iphone 4/5 covers, however I have found myself having more than a few issues. Initially I had a problem in making sure my designs would print off in the right size which I have now rectified (i'm using photoshop cs3).

I am now having trouble with the colours of the designs as they are not anywhere near as clear, bright or sharp as I would hope for. I just wondered if anyone could please shed any light on this? I am pressing them on a medium setting at 180 degrees for 100 seconds if this helps?

Any help on this would be very much appreciated! :)

Thanks,

Ash

Not hot enough but for too long methinks. Try again at 190-195 for 60-ish seconds.

Could hou be so kind and post pictures of issues? As there is Loads if reasons why you not achieving good quality printouts.

I press at 185 for 60 seconds which is pretty much the same as BMS suggest in terms of time factor and a slight increase in your temp.

If you purchased the blanks from a dye sub supplier they should be able to give you the recommended temp and times.

One other thing, have you installed the correct power driver for the printer? Your prints should look faded and washed out before sublimating. Presumably you are using Sawgrass inks so make sure you have followed their step by step instructions for installing the correct driver.

Last time when i pressed prints from Ricoh i used metal and pressed them for about 170c and worked greate. I thought ricoh dont need temps that is over 180c ?:o

Hi all,

Thanks for your quick responses, I will give the higher temp and lower time a go and see how they come out.

Just to explain a little further the average image size I am using is around 1mb to ensure the highest detail, and still the images come out with an almost washed out grainy appearance. I thought it might have been something to do with either the printer or any colour settings that photoshop uses? I am using the CD driver that came with the Ricoh and I am using Sawgrass ink, the paper is trupix.

Thanks,

Ash

Which inserts do you have, Ash? Steel or Ali? For Ali I'd stick to 190 for 60 seconds, on the steel I'd go 195 for 70-75 seconds. These times have always resulted in perfect prints for me and I've done a fair few. Also, I'm assuming you've removed the clear protective film? :P

Is it the POWEDRIVER you are using and not the RICOH Driver?

Was the CD you inserted from Sawgrass or a Blank CD (possibly handwritten) and not the one printed with Ricoh on it

Quote:

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Originally Posted by socialgiraffe

Is it the POWEDRIVER you are using and not the RICOH Driver?

Was the CD you inserted from Sawgrass or a Blank CD (possibly handwritten) and not the one printed with Ricoh on it

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Powerdriver is now download only.


http://www.sawgrasseurope.com/v.php?pg=1046

Hi All,

The driver was the default one which came with the printer (i'm guessing not the powerdriver that you have mentioned) I will download the new one and give that a try.

The inserts are ali ones so I will use the shorter press time, and yes I have removed the clear film lol :)

Thanks,

Ash

Download the correct driver and follow their step by step instructions and I think you will find that this will solve your issues.

Now, seeing as we have probably saved you loads of money in waste ink, time and blanks go and pay a tenner to become a premium member :wink:

Hi Scotty@BMS,

I am not sure which material the inserts are made out of, we purchased them from BMS if that helps?

Thanks,

Ash

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ashels23

Hi Scotty@BMS,

I am not sure which material the inserts are made out of, we purchased them from BMS if that helps?

Thanks,

Ash

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If they are brown on the back then they are metal, not ali as we find the metal prints up better. You must be selecting PowerDriver as your printer (not Ricoh) and you must have the paper face down in the paper tray (whiter side down or the BMS logo on the back of the paper face up depending on what paper you're using).

I'll move this thread into General Dye Sub section for better exposure.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bms

If they are brown on the back then they are metal, not ali as we find the metal prints up better.

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Is this because the coatings are different on the different metals, from different suppliers, or something to do with the way the different metals conduct heat?