No, the profile just tells the printer how much of each ink tho lay down to get the colour you want. So if you print with the wrong profile the green you get may not be the green you were expecting....
Type: Posts; User: cyprian.costelloe
No, the profile just tells the printer how much of each ink tho lay down to get the colour you want. So if you print with the wrong profile the green you get may not be the green you were expecting....
Hi Justin, I agree that the inks and profile are important going forward but he needs to get it printing first even if the colours are way off.
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You are not getting enough ink on The paper, if you were printing a darker image it would be more obvious.
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Ok so your printer is the problem. Check the carts did you remove the rubber bung?
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Put up a picture of the paper print you did the mug with, the used one.
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Profiles are to make the printer print the colours correctly. So if the colours were off in your design that would be the issue.
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On an epson usually high quality, standard paper, turn off high speed and turn on mirror image
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Heat and pressure problems usually produce fading or poor colours. So the edges would not print or print poorly or there could be patches within the art. To be honest I would be blaming the printer...
Ok, you have to find of the issue is with mug or the paper/printer. So if you take your image that you have printed, print it again but this time turn it 90 degrees and print the mug again, hopefully...
Check the paper print, there is probably banding on it. Print out a nozzle check make sure there are no missing bars.
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I would use a polyester shirt and sublimate them. Other option would be to use a toner transfer system to do the gold using a foil and then a vinyl for the lettering. Pain in the ass but would look...
You base all your costs on the worst possible case.
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Try clappac.com the operate out of the Netherlands for distribution but have two factories in Germany making blisters.
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Do you have a sub printer that would allow you print a sheet that you could then press onto the material. If that works you will eliminate the material and the ink from the problem and the issue...
My first question would be, what is the polyester coated with? Could that be causing a reaction with the ink. I am printing onto polyester material as well with no ill...
Did you check that it is 100% black in the image file?
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I believe that they have to be LED fuser systems. Easiest way to check is to look on the "ghost toner" web site as they list the machines they supply the white toner for, so you would be sure those...
Also check in your artwork that the blacks are 100% black and not a blend of all the other colors to make black.
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Same here
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I have done it on a 1900 and the 2000, without breaking the parts. Same head so I would think you should be able to do it. Just be gentle
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If you want to do the whole job you will also need an underpinner (staples the frame together) a guillotine for cutting the wood. Stapler, canvas gripper, finishing tape.
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You need a machine that has an ink that doesn't fade. Archival ink from Epson would be an example.
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See if you can apply just using an iron, if that works your issue is with the heat press. If it doesn't you have a compatibility issue with the film.
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I try to keep the total image within an A4 size sheet, usually can get two across the std roll that way. All about managing the costs :)
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Try serigraf in Dublin, delivery should be less than a third. If you are vat registered, you will not have to pay it. Help with the cash flow :)
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