We are considering printing onto plates to grow our range of giftware. Therefore we would like to know if anyone uses a plate press, how good it is and can you print all the way to the edge of the inner part? Thank you.
We are considering printing onto plates to grow our range of giftware. Therefore we would like to know if anyone uses a plate press, how good it is and can you print all the way to the edge of the inner part? Thank you.
I don't, but if I did, I would use a vacuum press to print plates. You could easily print edge to edge, get a nice even heat and probably considerably less failures.
USING: Whatever it takes to get the job done...
We did think that (prior to dusting off 3D vacuum) but we did read a thread (perhaps by Paul) that said that it didn't work very well. I think the water decal side of things may be best as not restricted to some of the terrible sublimation ceramics out there hey.
Vacuum Sublimation will work very well, you just need to practice and perfect any method. However most people don't, they follow the guidelines and if that doesn't work they give up. Not saying that happened with Paul, just saying that it will work very well if you perfect it.
With regards to water slide. This is only going to work if you are going to get a small screen printing set up as well as the digital ceramic printer. That will be a considerable investment and in my humble opinion a bit of a risk for something you are "thinking about".
I received a catalogue the other day with 25 (roughly) different types of ceramic plates. How many styles do you need for testing the market :-)
USING: Whatever it takes to get the job done...
I've used a vacuum unit and you can see the line left by the silicone membrane on the print as it has a very slight raised line to help get all the air out also the vacuum cracked quite a few plates also.
The 5in1 type press heating pads are crap you can't get within 2cm on the edge of the pad or that area will be faint.
The only thing that worked 100% for me was a dedicated plate press with which I can print right to the edge of the heating element. IT's an HF2600 and I have letters of commendation from Rolls-Royce Bentley regarding our work with it.
Not sure what the line is that you talk about, but surely if the plates keep cracking then would it be best to turn the vacuum down?I've used a vacuum unit and you can see the line left by the silicone membrane on the print as it has a very slight raised line to help get all the air out also the vacuum cracked quite a few plates also.
Have to agree that a dedicated plate press is best, just was not sure you could get them printing edge to edge though.
USING: Whatever it takes to get the job done...
The hf2500 and 2600 will print right to the edge they are not a membrane type hearer they are more like a round solid aluminium heat press with a cooker type element inside large heat holding capacity.
re the vacuum if you turn it down you tend to get blurring on the curved parts as the contact is not close enough, just my experience. Not really a big fan of the vacuum type units for sustainable quality, and its quality that my clients demand.
Its not a quality issue, its a settings issue. Was you using film or paper as both produce very different results as does one or two heaters and even the slightest change in the vacuumvacuum type units for sustainable quality, and its quality that my clients demand.
USING: Whatever it takes to get the job done...
Paper didn't like the film.