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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by willd View Post
    AH! Your transformer isn't actually a transformer, but as you previously noted an SSR, which is a solid state relay. I didn't pick this up until I read back through the thread, which was prompted by your reply to Wayupnorth, as it didn't make sense to me.

    In general SSRs have a pilot light to confirm that they have been triggered, which as you note, isn't showing.

    So I think it's pretty safe to surmise that that's where the fault is...
    Though of course you could test this by checking for a voltage across the input of the relay when the press is supposed to be heating. They are usually DC and less than 50V, but prudence when testing is always good!

    Another possibility is that the voltage that should be supplied to the switching contacts of the temperature controller is missing, in which case there won't be a signal to trigger the SSR...

  2. #22
    Member decca591's Avatar
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    This is certainly an interesting project, and once again very sensible advice, I will try the new "SSR" and see where we are, certainly moved forward a good bit and hopefully get this one nailed with all you guys onside its made life easier, Will post results from new SSR and see where we go from there !

    Many thanks for taking the time to respond !

    Decca

  3. #23
    Member decca591's Avatar
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    Just a quick catchup, not received new SSR today, sat by letterbox all morning ;-(

    Can confirm however the ID of old controller as XMTE 2001, new controller already confirmed as XMTE 2301 !

    hopefully have something more constructive to post tomorrow !!

    Decca

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by decca591 View Post
    Just a quick catchup, not received new SSR today, sat by letterbox all morning ;-(

    Can confirm however the ID of old controller as XMTE 2001, new controller already confirmed as XMTE 2301 !

    hopefully have something more constructive to post tomorrow !!

    Decca
    It will be interesting to see how well the new controller works relative to the old one - if it's set up properly (factory set I think, as these controllers are mostly used in similar applications) it shouldn't overshoot as much on initial switch-on, and will probably control better too!

  5. #25
    Member decca591's Avatar
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    Will post results as soon as I get new SSR and fit it,

    Was checking and double checking connections today !

    Stripped down old controller through curiosity today, nothing physically visible in there, although there is a ribbon connector that looks very ropey, found XMTE 2001 stamped across the smaller of the 2 circuit boards !!

    Also e-mailed the factory that made the original and the 2nd controller for info, experience tells me I'll be lucky to receive a reply but always worth a shot.

    Greatly appreciate the help from all you guys on the forum !

    Decca

  6. #26
    Member decca591's Avatar
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    Well running late today, busy day so only just had chance to look at the heat press.

    Installed the new SSR, still not getting the signal and no lights ;-(

    So no further on, I'll have a proper look in the morning, cant be far off, we know the element works, we have life in the controller, just not sending the switching signal to the SSR.

    Checked the out put voltage across the SSR, coming up at 241V

    so problem is between the controller and the SSR !!

    Back tomorrow !

    decca

  7. #27
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    If there is 240V across the output of the SSR then that shows it's not closed, ie. it's broken the circuit.

    That's as it should be when there's no heat demand - we can assume that there's no demand coming through from the controller as there's no illuminated led on the SSR.

    The (new) controller only passes on the "signal" to the SSR via the two terminals that change state from open to ĉlosed when there's a demand for heat (terminals 9 & 10). The controller doesn't "forward" any of the power supplied via terminals 13 & 14 anywhere, that's only used to power the controller itself. So if there's no voltage present on terminal 9 or 10 (could be either depending upon how it's been wired) when the controller is NOT calling for heat, or on both terminals 9 & 10 when it is calling for heat, then that's where to look.

    (Edited to add: if the trigger circuit is mains voltage you can check terminals 9 & 10 with reference to neutral or earth - if it's supplied via a transformer then you'll need to check it with reference to 0V on that supply.

    I am of the understanding from earlier in the thread that you are confident and competant to test electrical circuitry - if you don't feel that both of these are true, then please disregard everything that I've written.

    That's true for anyone else whom may be tempted to look inside a piece of equipment. I'm not advising or encouraging anyone to attempt fault-finding on live circuitry, and I decline all and any responsibility for any negative outcomes if anyone should choose to do so ...)


    What type is the SSR? Does it have voltage ratings written on it? Data from the old one will do.

    If it's an (extra) low voltage type there should be a tranformer and probably a rectifier too.

    Unfortunately it looks as though you may not have needed some of the bits that you bought, though you did say that there was no pilot on the controller, so possibly a power spike fried a few bits in one go...
    Last edited by willd; 24-02-2017 at 11:44 AM.

  8. #28
    Member decca591's Avatar
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    I have just added a file to the downloads section, under Essentials, it is a manual for the 2001 controller, not sure it will shed much light on my current problem but I always work on the premise that too much information is probably never enough !

    Just a quick response, in full agreement about confidence and competence, I do have some backup from big brother, who has over 40 years sparky experience and helps and advises when he can. This thread is full of useful tips and advice to help most people, I have long since stopped licking finger and thumb before testing if cables are live !!

    SSR DA 40
    input : 3 - 32 VDC
    output : 24 - 380 VAC

    There is nothing else tucked away such as a separate transformer, its pretty much power, controller, temp probe, SSR, heating element.

    going to be having another look later - see if I can provide you with any more info !

    Not worried about any extra bits, none of these components are expensive, as long as youre only buying them once and not blowing them, and I am enjoying the experience ;-)

    Decca

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by decca591 View Post

    SSR DA 40
    input : 3 - 32 VDC
    output : 24 - 380 VAC

    There is nothing else tucked away such as a separate transformer, its pretty much power, controller, temp probe, SSR, heating element.

    going to be having another look later - see if I can provide you with any more info !

    Decca
    There's something I'm not seeing here.

    Are both the new and the original SSRs the same type? Although not 100% sure from the photo you posted before, it appears that both wires from the SSR go to the switching relay terminals (9 & 10) on the controller.

    That would to a degree make sense - particularly as you note that there's no transformer - if the SSR were a self powered type, as they derive their trigger voltage from the load.

    The issue now is that SSR that you note isn't of that type, so we need more infomation to make progress...

  10. #30
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    Just out of interest are all these components packaged in a control box ?

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