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  1. #11
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    I don't think I can use my current photo paper for ceramics as it is too thick to wrap around the items. I'll have to get some thinner paper before I can try it out.

  2. #12
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    I think I've got a lot of experimenting to do to get a good mix of quality and cost if any paper can be used :)
    Always good to experiment.... but


    ts probably only worth having a dabble if you print A LOT. Sometimes, cutting a corner or two is not worth the hassle, dye sub paper (in general) works well and does the job. I only started experimenting when I looked at the fact that I am printing 300-1000 hi viz vests a week. When you get to that sort of number you really need to cut costs as much as possible.

    However, using standard paper slows the process down as I have to have a grease proof sheet (Tesco again ) between the printed paper and the platen, this is because the paper is so thin that the ink seeps through and leaves a mark on the platen which subsequently transfers to the next vest under the press. If I were to use "proper" dye sub paper that does not happen.

    It may sound like I am being petty, but putting a sheet on top everytime slows the processdown by a few seconds each time which subsequently means less vests printed per hour.
    USING: Whatever it takes to get the job done...

  3. #13
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    I'm not really a mass producer more involved in niche markets so I can only reduce costs as long as it is not at the expense of quality.

    But I've just done a notebook with the photo paper and for the first time the book looks exactly how we wanted it to look when we first designed it.

    The colour and shading are exactly how we want and the detailing shows really well. It's the best print we've ever done of this design.

    The big test will be later when I try a clock. One of the designs we sell has large areas of dark blue and this regularly poses a problem with color reproduction and detailed shading. We regularly get uneven areas of colour or tracking marks which means throwing the transfer away if we catch it in time or the clock itself if it is something that shows up after print.

    But I'm so impressed with the book cover I think we'll do all our covers and document folders with the photo paper rather than the sub paper.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by socialgiraffe View Post
    Always good to experiment....

    this is because the paper is so thin that the ink seeps through and leaves a mark on the platen which subsequently transfers to the next vest under the press. If I were to use "proper" dye sub paper that does not happen.
    How many gsm is the Tesco photo paper? They have about 3 weights? I'm liking my 112gsm Subliprint at the moment, nice and quick.

  5. #15
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    How many gsm is the Tesco photo paper?
    80gsm Gooner.

    TBH, I think the bleed through is also from where a pillock of an employee took a wire wool brush to the platen and has scratched to buggery. Never used to get any bleed on any paper but pretty sure it started after then.
    USING: Whatever it takes to get the job done...

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Customprintwales View Post
    Epson matte photo paper used to be a regular option

    Are matte photo papers better than glossy photo paper for sublimation?
    Tried many types years ago and matte photo paper is the way to go over gloss. This is all that sublimation paper still is really. The uncoated papers absorb a fair bit of ink into the fibres of the paper so you don't get the crisp lines and higher transfer.

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