Mug pressing problems

[johna1954]

Hi Folks,
I think I know what is wrong but not entirely sure how to fix.
I am using 10oz AAA Durham mugs from Listerwood, S-Race paper printed on a SG3110 using Sublisplash inks and pressing with a FreeSub twin mug press. Temp 180C and 175sec

I am getting great results over most of the mug surface except at the bottom and near the handle.
I have adjusted the pressure and also tried putting mug in opposite way with same result.

The mugs are very slightly different in diameter top & bottom by about 1-2mm, 80mm top and 78mm bottom which possibly would explain why there is no difference turning mugs around.

If I put a silicone sheet in would I still have the same problem and what increase in time would be best?
Or any other suggestions appreciated.
Thanks
John

[webtrekker]

Hi John. Not saying this is the answer, but trying it out won't cost you anything.

1. Set one press to 110 degrees, 180 secs.

2. Set your second press to 180 degrees, 180 secs.

3. Wrap your mug as normal.

4. Press in the first press to preheat it.

5. Immediately switch mug to second press to 'cook' it.

6. Dunk in warm water and remove transfer, or remove transfer and allow to cool naturally.

[Justin]

How close are you trying to get to the handle? You may find pre-heating the base for 30 seconds helps, quick search on here should find this discussion.

[ginap]

Hi John

I've got the same set up as you and find that with the press you just can't get close to the top, bottom, or handle without fading issues.

The maximum length of full wrap design I could get was around 20.5cm before fading starts so there'd be white space from the handle of about 2-3cms. And top to bottom you'd have to leave at least a 5-8mm gap.

So, for me, I find the press better for more logo type styles where you just have a block print in the centre of both sides of the mug. If that makes sense!

I now use an oven for full wrap designs (many thanks to all the forum users for discussing halogen ovens!) and can get as close as 2-3mm from the handle and can get right to the top and bottom of the mug but I do still leave a 5mm space as I think it looks better.

However, it may also be an issue with the mug itself. I found with the BMS Euro mugs there's a very slight taper at the bottom which would also add to fading issues. In the oven this isn't a problem. But I find the Xpres 5013 mugs way better with no tapering issues at the bottom so tend to use these now instead. I'm not sure how these compare to the mugs you're using but it's worth inspecting the mugs you've got just to see if there is tapering causing the issue. If it is, you might want to try adjusting your design to stay away from the bottom.

Hope this helps!

[pisquee]

We have those presses and print full top to bottom - make sure your press is tight enough, and also pre heat the mugs

[johna1954]

Hi Folks, sorry for delay in replying, have been away on holiday.

Justin, yes did try this but still did not work.

Ginap, starting to think more about the wraps and using an oven. There is a slight tapering (1 - 1.5mm) which I have taken to be the main reason for the problem. I contacted Listerwood who stated that the sleeve in the mug press was not suitable for the smaller 10oz mugs and they very kindly sent samples of the larger 11oz and to be fair they turned out ok. I like the Listerwood mugs for the quality and assurance of Dishwasher durability.
I mainly supply bulk to artists who want as much of the area as possible used.

Pisquee yes I have tried every possible adjustment and do as a matter of course pre-heat (thanks to this forum for that info in the past)

It is either just use the 11oz mugs, get a suitable sleeve for the 10oz mugs or invest in an oven.

I am still early in my journey with sublimation and thank you all again for your advice.

[ginap]

If you're looking at an oven and wraps the one I have is one talked about on the forum from Robert Dyas: https://www.robertdyas.co.uk/daewoo-...h-12l-capacity (£29.99) - think they're also doing a 15% discount at the moment as well.

And the wraps are the green ones - also talked about on the forum! - on Ebay.

This oven set up works perfectly for me for getting closer to the handle so it's a fairly inexpensive way to go if the press isn't working out at the moment for the kind of full print you need. That said, I'm no expert and other more experienced folks on the forums may have better ideas for you to try!

[webtrekker]

I have to say, my mug presses are nothing special, but they print Listawood 10oz mugs fine with an 11oz blanket. Saying that though, I do now use a halogen oven as, even when not doing a full-area print, it does allow a 'safety margin.' I too just use the green silicone wraps from ebay and find them fine. You need to experiment with an oven when you first get one as the temperature dials aren't that accurate, but once you find the correct setting and times then you can get some nice prints.

This was my very first attempt in my halogen oven ...



I now prefer to leave a slightly wider white border, top and bottom, but can get very near the handle, with a nice sharp edge to the print.

[johna1954]

Just ordered up an oven, thanks for the link ginap will now see about getting some wraps.

[ginap]

It was this thread started by Webtrekker who got me thinking about them in the first place and there's a good few comments there from others using them talking about timings etc:
https://www.dyesubforum.co.uk/vbforu...st-impressions

Best of luck and keep us posted how you get on!