Correct, a MAN can't :-)Oh but surely a man can't have enough jimmy jams?
Correct, a MAN can't :-)Oh but surely a man can't have enough jimmy jams?
USING: Whatever it takes to get the job done...
Do you use Thermoshrink for mugs at all? Did try it but wasn't impressed. The area near the handle pulls away from the mug due to the angle created. My heat gun has laid idle since a few initial attempts.
Would have thought the material is available elsewhere as used in various industries, so might avoid the sublimation premium.
Yes, depending on what you are printing. If I use the example of the coke can shape then you will also need to tape around the bevel part to get a really tight gripSo thermo bag, halogen oven, heat gun to wrap the bag around product and that's it?
As per Gooner's link. I have only ever done the one mug in a film wrap, it worked fine and with a little bit of tweaking it would be spot on, but I don't think customers would pay the extra for it as a bulk item versus the speed and cheaper price of just a plain silicon wrap.Do you use Thermoshrink for mugs at all?
The stuff is very cheap anyway (in my humble opinion), but I am sure you could get it a lot cheaper with a bit of searchingWould have thought the material is available elsewhere as used in various industries, so might avoid the sublimation premium.
USING: Whatever it takes to get the job done...
What is the material for the thermoshrink? Polythene? I would need to be able to use a material which could be recycled.
To be honest, I have no idea, but I would be very surprised if this material could be recycled.What is the material for the thermoshrink? Polythene? I would need to be able to use a material which could be recycled.
USING: Whatever it takes to get the job done...
SG's thread above was the reason I had a look. Didn't get a decent print around the handle unless a lot of additional manipulation took place. The thermoshrink pulls away from the area if you cut a hole to go over the handle or pulls fully away from the area if you leave whole and over the handle.
SG's thread above was the reason I had a look. Didn't get a decent print around the handle unless a lot of additional manipulation took place. The thermoshrink pulls away from the area if you cut a hole to go over the handle or pulls fully away from the area if you leave whole and over the handle.
When I did it I left the film to go over the handle, however as mentioned in that particular thread, I don’t think it’s for the bulk side of printing. There is too much “faffing” for mugs to this design template (under handle and on handle etc) but Etsy & co sellers could do well with it.
Where the shrink wins is on the odd shapes etc. I can not think of any other way of printing a full colour top to bottom on a bevel.
As an example, there was a question on here recently asking about cappuccino mugs (the image was of a Costa mug) as we know these are not readily available, but if they were, or you brought in your own coated blanks then the film could print it.
It’s really good stuff, but not really for bulk as wrapping one mug takes about 30 seconds.
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USING: Whatever it takes to get the job done...
The going over the handle bit and your finished result is what confused me on this thread. When the shrink wrap goes over the handle and is heated, the wrap pulls away from the mug surface near the handle area. The handle is the high point where the wrap pulls taut to. If you place a flat edge from handle to the mug surface, then this is the approx thing happening. No pressure near the handle area to achieve a consistent print.