Did this myself a few days back with XP5013 and got exact same result. I have the coating now but initial tests y/day didn't go well with that either.
Did this myself a few days back with XP5013 and got exact same result. I have the coating now but initial tests y/day didn't go well with that either.
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webtrekker (06-03-2019)
Not looking good, eh? :-(
I wonder if, for a single colour logo, whether engraving it into the base with a laser engraver might work, then fill the engraving by wiping with suitable ink/paint and maybe a clear coat over the top if need be? Probably cheaper buying a pad printer though!
Too much hassle, needs to be quick.
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Just printed this logo onto XP5013 & Listawood mugs, this is photo of the XP5013 which printed slightly better.
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Wow that's perfect. What was your set-up, did you press before or after doing the regular pressing around the mug and how much extra time did it take? Infoooooo please.
It's good but not printed perfectly at the top, slightly faded, doesn't show on photo too badly though.
Just using test mugs at the moment (rejects!) Pre-treated with Subli Prep, left for 10 mins, cured in oven for 20 mins at 160c. Left overnight to ensure cool etc. Printed in my flat press (wind very high!) for 4 minutes with a 5mm rubber pad on top to allow for the curve on the base.
Paper I used was cheap stuff, Trupix can stick it appears but I will be testing again.
Spray goes everywhere when applying so I cut a circle out of a small box and popped the mug in so spray only goes onto the bottom. Not very technical but does the job for now.
You should be able to cure the spray at the same time as applying the main image. As mentioned on other thread about mug oven timings, I reduced to 160c and cooked a mug for 20 minutes and it was perfect.
Last edited by Justin; 15-03-2019 at 02:28 PM.
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webtrekker (15-03-2019)
Blimey, amazing it works but wow so much prep time although it probably is the same for pad printing which would need cooking as well.
Yeah, bit of a faff. You could get setup better and reduce the time. I think getting an even coat of spray is the hardest thing, I expected that. I've got slightly uneven coating so the top of my logo isn't quite as clear. That said, I'm pretty chuffed at the difference from previous prints.
I should do full colour next ;-) That's where it will stand apart from pad printing.
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webtrekker (15-03-2019)
For a first attempt that's bloody marvellous Justin!
Just shows what a little perserverance can achieve. I can't wait to see the coloured version.
Obviously, there's a lot of scope for this, such as printing those cheeky messages you sometimes see on the bottom of mugs, or printing 'Limited Edition' numbers for a special design, etc, along with the usual 'dishwasher & microwave safe' markings.
Last edited by webtrekker; 15-03-2019 at 08:36 PM.
Justin (15-03-2019)
Marabu in Milton Keynes do a Glass Ink - Glass Ink GL, which uses a hardener. According to the bumpf it will be touch dry at 20 degrees C in 2-3 minutes and reach final hardness in 4 - 6 days. Alternatively, it cures in 30 minutes at 140 C. I think you get a few hours working time with the ink so long as you have a reasonable volume and it is kept in a lidded container. The 2 or 3 m inute drying time is achieved because it is effectively a thin film and the volatiles can evaporate off quickly.
Soooooo, it looks as though if you are cooking in an oven you should be able to achieve a full or near full cure in the normal cooking time. One unknown (to me) is how easy it is to clean the mixed ink from your rubber stamp and will the ink/cleaner destroy the stamp. I think Marabu will do a sample pack, can't remember how much they cost - £20 rings a bell.
As far as trying to sublimate onto the base of mugs goes............ it is my understanding that Listawood used to coat their mugs upside down and so the base would catch some overspray of the polyester coating. However, they now coat with the mug sitting on its base so there shouldn't be any coating on the base. To be in with a chance of sublimating onto the base, without coating it yourself, is to find a supplier whose mugs are still coated upside down.
Arthur