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  1. #1
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    Halogen Oven Problem - Help!

    I'm new to sublimation so it's probably something I'm doing wrong but my images are mainly coming out speckled/faded. I'm using a Sawgrass SG400 with Sawgrass inks and papers, LW 11oz and Xpress 10oz mugs and a cheap round halogen oven with a temperature gauge inside. I bought some green mug wraps from Amazon which feel tight when wrapped around a mug. I've tried the oven at 180 degrees for 7, 8 , 9 and 10 minutes as well as 200 degrees for 7, 8, 9 and 10 minutes for one mug. I've also tried heating the mug to take the chill off. I use Photoshop to create the image and then send it to the Sawgrass online designer program to print out.



    The photo shows how they mostly come out. Admittedly the image is black (or should be) and I've read there can be problems with black. I've also found that the right hand side is usually much better (near perfect) with the left side being much worse. Sometimes both sides are just as bad. I've reversed the paper on the mug (printed it upside down) and got the same result (better right, bad left) so I don't think it's the image. The image is a png file in RGB format.

    Is there something I'm missing or could it be this image? I have printed others which have come out a lot better but also others which have come out similar. The black is 100% black on screen (#000000) and one side often comes out nice and black.

    Should I either:
    - Forget the halogen and buy the Blizzard oven that some of you use with good results?
    - Forget the halogen and buy a mug press (although I like printing close to the handle)?
    - Try some other combination of temperature and time?
    - Carry on and make sure I never have any black in my images although some of the other images have come out poor?
    - Something else?

    Help!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by BadZebedee; 1 Week Ago at 07:29 PM.

  2. #2
    Premium Member Quinsfan's Avatar
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    I see you are using Sawgrass are you using the Sawgrass power driver ICC?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Many thanks
    Iain

    Equipment used A4 Ricoh printer, HP3085 Heat Press Graphtec cutter, Jarin mug press, CJV 30-60 solvent printer and lots of help from DSF.

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    I'm using the Virtuoso print manager and printing from the online Sawgrass Creative Studio program.

    I also have City Ink express inks and papers which I plan to switch over to and use their ICC profile once I use up the Sawgrass inks.

  4. #4
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    I will try and tag Webtrekker (am in my phone) as he is a bit of a guru on halogen ovens

    I doubt if there is a need to get a bigger oven just yet, you have decent kit and consumables so itís just a case of getting the time and temp right.

    Out of interest, you are printing on the correct side of the dye sub paper arenít you? And does the print look smooth always no speckles?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    USING: Whatever it takes to get the job done...

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    I'm printing on the bright white side of the paper (face down in the printer tray). Yes it does look smooth with no speckles on the paper. Thanks for the help so far.

  6. #6
    Premium Member webtrekker's Avatar
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    Hi. The only difference between your setup and mine (apart from you using an SG400, which is virtually identical to my Ricoh SG3110DN anyway) is the use of Sawgrass inks and their proprietary software.

    I use CIE inks and paper, together with their ICC profile and print directly from Photoshop. My blacks are always BLACK, believe me!

    With regard to your halogen oven, mugs, and wraps, I see no problems there, and your prints should have been fine with the thermometer reading 180 to 200 degrees, and 9 or 10 minutes is about the norm with regard to time.


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    Thanks very much for the help and advice. As I was planning on switching to CIE inks and paper anyway, I'll do that and report back. It'll be far easier printing directly from Photoshop with an ICC profile rather than the Sawgrass software.

  8. #8
    Premium Member webtrekker's Avatar
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    It'll be far easier printing directly from Photoshop with an ICC profile rather than the Sawgrass software.
    It's a doddle!

    CIE will email you a link to download the profile you need for your setup, including a PDF describing in detail how to install the profile and the settings to use in your printer driver and Photoshop.

    Basically, all it entails is that you set your printer driver to 'High Quality, Plain Paper' and uncheck colour management. You then select the correct profile in Photoshop's Print dialogue and make sure it is set to 'Photoshop manages colours.'

    You can also, at this stage, select the 'Output' tab in the Print dialogue and check 'Emulsion side down' which will automatically flip your printout horizontally, which is what is required for mug transfers and transfers for most other items (not for the likes of acrylic blocks, glass chopping boards, or glass clocks though).


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    Update. I've switched my ink and paper over to City Ink Express. Bingo! I've only done a couple of samples so far but everything is looking good. My blacks are really black and solid. No more fading or speckles.

    A big thank you to everyone who helped me out on this thread, especially socialgiraffe and webtrekker.

  10. The Following User Says Thank You to BadZebedee For This Useful Post:

    webtrekker (1 Week Ago)

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    Premium Member webtrekker's Avatar
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    Great stuff! Now you can start enjoying it. :-D


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    BadZebedee (1 Week Ago)

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