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  1. #1
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    Mug Press Perfecting

    Hi All,

    New to the game (couple months) but feel like I've been doing it a million years with all the trials and testing etc. Needing help so I don't throw thousands at this.

    So, Equipment -
    Epson ET-2714
    InkTec Sublinova Inks
    Tex-Print / TruePix Paper
    FreeSub ST-210 Press / Genie 3 Mug Press
    SignzWorld Orca 11oz Durham Mugs

    I got into this as a hobby which quickly presented itself with an opportunity, my tattoo artist friend who has started a new project over lockdown whilst being unable to tattoo people has started producing artwork for sale and wanted to move into Mugs/T-Shirts etc. He's well established and has a big following so this is a great opportunity to kickstart my venture. Being a tattooist he's very exacting. It has to be art on a Mug. The Designs are 210mm, Full Top to Bottom.

    Highlights of key problems -
    -Pickup of Ink on pinwheels leaving tiny dots scattered across image.
    -Edge and Base of Mug Fading
    -Differing colour results with Left and Right Heating Elements using identical settings. (Blues showing as Green in Left Element and showing correctly as Blue in Right Element)

    I've fixed some of these problems.
    -Pickup of Ink that I thought was a printer issue (Sorry Christian at Ink Experts, fantastic customer service btw). This was the paper. I changed to TruePix and it went away instantly.
    -Differing results, I sorted by purchasing a Genie 3 Press from Listawood. I need the consistency as he will pick up on ever changing mug quality.

    This still leaves me with Edge Fading. I cannot for the life of me stop the bottom corners fading. I've tried multiple times, preheats etc. The worst thing is, I went back to the FreeSub (Right Hand Element) with my new paper and the results were better than with the Genie!! I was not expecting this.

    I don't want to question the quality of the Genie 3, Truepix & InkTec Sublinova. I believe these to be fantastic quality and it's operator error on my part before I change these.

    The only thing I am left questioning is the Orca Coated Mugs. From research I'm lead to believe RN Coating and even the Listawood Duraglaze are better alternatives.

    Does anyone have any experience changing mugs and making the problem disappear like magic?

    Thanks in advance guys and girls!!!

  2. #2
    Premium Member Tetris Champion, Space Invaders Champion, Asteroids Champion
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    I can’t write too much as I am on my phone and have fat thumbs..z however I will say this...

    Get yourself a small halogen oven (about £30 I think) and then a couple of mug wraps. This will product far superior results on top to bottom and will get you a lot closer to the handle.

    The genie III is a cracking mug press but I think you might be expecting to much from any mug press on a consistent basis. I have both of the presses you have mentioned but to get what you require I would fire up my oven.

    In terms of quality. SW mugs are pretty dire. Although I purchase them myself I only do this for cheap giveaways on the promo side. I would never consider SW mugs for retail. I even have a video somewhere that shows a SW mug that I have wiped with nail polish remover and removed some of the printed image off after pressing. They are that crap.

    I personally favour listawood as their coating is the best by a country mile. Others prefer Xpres mugs which are a very good quality as well.


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  3. #3
    Senior Member webtrekker's Avatar
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    Mug fading is a big problem with all-over designs. Not all mug presses are ideal for this so, if you're doing full-area prints, I'd recommend trying an oven rather than a press. You won't have the heat-sinking problems with an oven. For a relatively cheap way to try this out you can buy a halogen cooker (the ones with the glass basin available in loads of shops for round £20 to £50), or, and I don't recommend this except for a trial run, your kitchen oven. You can buy silicon mug wraps fairly cheaply from ebay.

    Do a forum search for 'halogen' and you will see many recommendations, as well as posts from people having the same fading issues as you.

    If the oven method works better for you and you need bigger production capacity consider buying a dedicated mug oven, such as the Blizzard convection oven, that you will see mentioned many times in posts about ovens and fading.
    Last edited by webtrekker; 30-08-2020 at 01:09 PM.

  4. #4
    Senior Member webtrekker's Avatar
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    Whoops! Sorry SG, posts crossed!

  5. #5
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    Excellent guys, thanks for your input.

    I have looked into ovens but presumed they were based more at the "multiple mugs at a time" people.
    I may get 5 a day, I may get none. It's still very early days.

    Promising to know that I've managed to get the thumbs up from him on what sounds like, an inferior mug! Hopefully things can only get better from here on in!

    I'll let you know how I get on once I've tried Listawood Mugs!

  6. #6
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    I use a Freehub st 210 double element press.
    I cut the transfer paper to the size of the mug. I then tape the edges along the handle and around the bottom of the base. (This stops gassing out) in one press I pre heat the mug at 100°c for 4 minutes whilst bringing the other element upto 130°c idle, once that's happened I them place the pre heated mug into the idling press and heat the mug upto 190°c for 160 seconds. Then place the mug into a bucket of water to stop the sublimation process. The results are around 99% successful.

    I use the Epson eco tank from ink experts

    I also use ink experts 120 sublimation paper

    Also the sublinonova inks.

    But I use coralgraph 10 ounce mugs.

    Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk

  7. The Following User Says Thank You to leealbi791 For This Useful Post:

    NicH (07-04-2021)

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