DSF

bigj2552;127935 wrote:AH...so it not just us then....thank for that !
Funny thing is...they started out great....and i mean GREAT ! - hot or cold peel not one bit o coaster came off....
So wth has changed ?:

I'll assume you move the tape instantly burning your fingers? I've tried to move tape from a cold mug and it's like superglue. But when the adhesive on the tape is hot and melted, it slides off. I'm probably stating the obvious to you here and you've tried it already!

BMS got in touch this morning and they are talking to the manufacturer today as well as sending us some older coasters to print from previous shipment to see if they were ok.

I know it is a waste of paper but I print 2 coaster on a a4 sheet and fold the paper over the cork and tape, no matter what coaster I use this does not fail. Even on the cheapest coasters.

next time i'd use a thicker wood

Would it not be better to get it cut out of metal?

I realise that the metal would be very hot but no different to mugs, I am thinking something that sits on the heat press, you place the coasters into the squares and then the sheet of paper over it (no tape). would that not work or am I missing something?

socialgiraffe;127956 wrote:Would it not be better to get it cut out of metal?

I realise that the metal would be very hot but no different to mugs, I am thinking something that sits on the heat press, you place the coasters into the squares and then the sheet of paper over it (no tape). would that not work or am I missing something?

... or even moulded in silicone. Print a template, arrange the coasters exactly onto the template, and pour silicone rubber over them. When set, the mould will be exactly sized to your template and, to release the finished coasters, all you'd need to do would be to flex the silicone, like those moulds for making cakes and stuff in the oven. Would be a simple job to create duplicate moulds too for extra jigs.

This high temperature resistant stuff might do it...https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/RTV-High-Tempe ... 2480053423

jennywren;127953 wrote:I know it is a waste of paper but I print 2 coaster on a a4 sheet and fold the paper over the cork and tape, no matter what coaster I use this does not fail. Even on the cheapest coasters.

not so much waste of paper...its time and practicality...

doing 500 - 1000 coaster runs this again is not feasible - sorry....thats fine if you poodling about with small amount of coaster orders.
we always have 12 coasters on heat press at any one time - 2 x a4 sheets paper x 6 coaster per sheet - 12 printing at a time...
and even then, we could do with bigger press for convenience and to add/speed up productivity ;(

mouse mats are the same - 2 at time on the press for quickness

UK Printed Mugs;127951 wrote:BMS got in touch this morning and they are talking to the manufacturer today as well as sending us some older coasters to print from previous shipment to see if they were ok.

same here spoke to jo, martins wife..nice lady

Metal would be good too "SocialGiraffe" - never really thought about using that lol.
Regarding the silicone "Webtrekker" - good idea too, but would it not mis-shape, or go floppy, resulting in reject coaster prints?

John G;127965 wrote:Metal would be good too "SocialGiraffe" - never really thought about using that lol.
Regarding the silicone "Webtrekker" - good idea too, but would it not mis-shape, or go floppy, resulting in reject coaster prints?

There is a chance of that, but you can get various grades of silicone, I believe, that would set harder if needs be.

SG's metal idea is good too. Could probably be CNC'd from a block of aluminium.

I'm a bit reluctant to suggest MDF because of the possibility of releasing formaldehyde fumes under heat and pressure.

It seems that having some other material on the back to protect it from the tape may work. Obviously any adhesive would probably make it worse. I have a small warco guillotine and cut out a piece of sub aluminium just under the coaster size. Bending the corners inwards creates a "claw" that locates on the 4 corners. As the coaster corners are radiussed the bent tabs prevent the coaster moving in the cover. The cover is placed on the coaster back and located/taped as usual. It only takes a couple of seconds to pop the cover on/off. I guess you may need 3 or more sets for uninterrupted pressing. The ally plate may affect pressing time as it acts as a heatsink, however this can easily be adjusted as it will be a constant.

Pic shows simple (crude) mockup just to prove the point and to show the principle. Subli metals will be able to cut the blanks to your spec, I am assuming that not all manufacturers make coasters the same size...