DSF

I have recently started turning my mugs upside down over half way through cooking (in the halogen oven) and this has made a big difference at preventing the fading around the bottoms or the overcooking of black ink near the top of the mugs. It is a bit of a pain but it means I don't have to preheat the bottom of the mugs and I am having a lot less rejects.

I've got the BMS DF16 Mug Press & their European Sublimation Mugs.
I'm finding my sublimation's are coming out faded at the top and bottom.
I did a smaller image so it was away from the edges, (there's an 18mm gap top and bottom) to eliminate the thicker mug base, and it's still coming out faded.
I've tightened up the mug in the press. The fade is barely noticeable in the 2nd mug I done with the smaller image, but I noticed it so would like to sort it.
Would a hotter press or longer duration help?
Thanks

Fading top and bottom often indicates a tapered mug. Which/whose mugs are you using? Hold 2 mugs together, do they look straight. Even on a tapered mu you should be able to go about 5mm top and bottom.

Don't over-tighten the press either, a sung fit where the blanket just starts to curl over the mug edges, shouldn't need any more and you risk blanket element marks.

We do find that a common problem with fading, especially this time of year, is caused by the mugs being too cold. Mugs should be upto room temperature and not cold to the touch otherwise this will take all of the heat out of the press giving poor results.

Perhaps one could pre-heat the mugs, to get it up in temperature and to avoid what Listawood mentions in the post.

You'll find threads on here discussing this issue. Some folk use a heated tray or similar and place them on a while before needing, if I'm printing in a press I pop the lower half in for a few seconds first. If I'm using my oven no need to pre-heat base.

Hi everyone, if not too late to put my recent experiences with faded bottoms etc I would like to add these comments.

My main issue has been with Bone China Can style mugs from Listawood. They taper a lot at the bottom which I think is the problem as the paper cannot press evenly against the mug and 'Crinkles'. My solution has been to allow 5mm minimum from the bottom and wrap heat tape around to increase the pressure. Also depending upon the image I put a couple of 'release' cuts to try and prevent the 'Crinkling' of the paper. I mainly use an oven but if the image is not as near to the bottom then a mug press works fine.
The Balmoral mugs (from Dye Sublimation supplies) have been similar but not to the same extent and not so many rejects. Putting the tape around certainly has helped.
The Durham 10 oz mugs (Listawood) so far have not caused me any problems and always use the oven for these.

I have not been heating the bottom of the mugs and will certainly be giving this a try or turning upside down halfway through. (Thank you for these tips)

Probably on another thread but has anyone used the Heat shrink sleeves? I just cannot get the hang of these. Is there a video out there that shows them being used with mugs. I know that you have to put a slit in for the handle but it still rips when heating.

I just pop about an inch of the base of my mugs into the press for about ten seconds to get the base warmed up, much like the guy in this video at 2:32: https://youtu.be/as0eExWknHs?t=152

Hi MikeJB, Thanks for yur reply. I primarily use an oven and have started warming the bases on the top of my clam press. I do have a mug press and like that idea, will try next time.

johna1954;141067 wrote:Hi everyone, if not too late to put my recent experiences with faded bottoms etc I would like to add these comments.

My main issue has been with Bone China Can style mugs from Listawood. They taper a lot at the bottom which I think is the problem as the paper cannot press evenly against the mug and 'Crinkles'. My solution has been to allow 5mm minimum from the bottom and wrap heat tape around to increase the pressure. Also depending upon the image I put a couple of 'release' cuts to try and prevent the 'Crinkling' of the paper. I mainly use an oven but if the image is not as near to the bottom then a mug press works fine.
The Balmoral mugs (from Dye Sublimation supplies) have been similar but not to the same extent and not so many rejects. Putting the tape around certainly has helped.
The Durham 10 oz mugs (Listawood) so far have not caused me any problems and always use the oven for these.

I have not been heating the bottom of the mugs and will certainly be giving this a try or turning upside down halfway through. (Thank you for these tips)

Probably on another thread but has anyone used the Heat shrink sleeves? I just cannot get the hang of these. Is there a video out there that shows them being used with mugs. I know that you have to put a slit in for the handle but it still rips when heating.

Do you mean something like this with heat shrink?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_mTpTcwlMso


What about the mug press itself, which mug press is the best against fading? Im not sure if i should buy an oven or a mug press.

I never was aware of the fact that each color has a different sublimation temperature. Its all very confusing but its to late now, i already bought the printer