Light patches at the bottom and top corners
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scrappydoo
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- Joined: 26 Sep 2013, 20:02
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Re: Light patches at the bottom and top corners
I see what your saying, but surely that would mean I would have to ensure the mug press was cool before I started using it. Thats fine for a one off but what if I want to do a mug straight afterwards?
Surely this is just the same as pressing the mug for longer?
Surely this is just the same as pressing the mug for longer?
Re: Light patches at the bottom and top corners
I use Novachrome mugs 365F for 30 seconds or bms mugs 338F for 140secs only had problems with the bottom of mug when printing top to bottom but by standing them on a radiator problem is solved.
Re: Light patches at the bottom and top corners
I had the same problem with my mugs. I now heat up to 200 degrees and cook for 4 minutes. I heat up my press but label my mug up cold, put cold mug in and temperature drops naturally then builds up to 200 degrees, then I count down 4 minutes. My problem was solved. Hope that helps.
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socialgiraffe
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Re: Light patches at the bottom and top corners
Do a search on the forum for a Teriyaki grill (which is what I use if the customer requires top to bottom printing). Add the transfer before putting on the grill though
USING: Whatever it takes to get the job done...
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scrappydoo
- Posts: 25
- Joined: 26 Sep 2013, 20:02
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Re: Light patches at the bottom and top corners
Right, after another day spent wasting mugs I have taken a drastic step and gone back to zero.
Temp : 185 degrees celcius
Time : 180s
Pressure : Just enough so that you can't move the mug when press is closed
Notes : Pre-heated base of mug on a radiator for ten minutes until hot
Results : Clear pattern of the heating element can be seen across the top and bottom left, faint heating element pattern over the rest of the mug


Temp : 185 degrees celcius
Time : 180s
Pressure : Just enough so that you can't move the mug when press is closed
Notes : Pre-heated base of mug on a radiator for ten minutes until hot
Results : Clear pattern of the heating element can be seen across the top and bottom left, faint heating element pattern over the rest of the mug


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Dave271069
- Posts: 1134
- Joined: 26 Apr 2012, 22:44
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Re: Light patches at the bottom and top corners
I had these problems with my mug press, which was a Chinese cheap one, around the £120 mark. I have now turned to ovens to print mugs, when I joined the forum I was told by cheap by twice, I'm now saving up for a mug press in the £300-£400 mark which I think would solve most problems with mugs not printing 100% all the time.
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scrappydoo
- Posts: 25
- Joined: 26 Sep 2013, 20:02
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Re: Light patches at the bottom and top corners
Yeah mine is a cheap one from CoralGraph, i only got it yesterday. I have even had to drill two different mounting holes in it as due to the terrible design of the (plastic) pressure nut, there was no way to adjust the pressure. The plastic nut had also melted after the first use because of this bad design.
I probably should have contacted CoralGraph straight away and got my money back on the press but I thought I would perceiver, don't hold out much hope of getting my money back on it now I've drilled two extra holes in the frame
I probably should have contacted CoralGraph straight away and got my money back on the press but I thought I would perceiver, don't hold out much hope of getting my money back on it now I've drilled two extra holes in the frame
Re: Light patches at the bottom and top corners
With the cheaper presses it is hard to get consistent heat through to the mug. Put the pressure right up so it is nice and tight on the mug.
Re: Light patches at the bottom and top corners
try 240sec. should help.
http://www.howtoprintstuff.co.uk <-- How To Print Stuff BLOG
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scrappydoo
- Posts: 25
- Joined: 26 Sep 2013, 20:02
- Contact:
Re: Light patches at the bottom and top corners
I've just tried a mug at 180 degrees for 240 seconds. Still the same problem 
I am going to email Coralgraph now and explain the situation to them, regardless of what I have done to the press (drilled two mounting holes) it looks to me like it is not fit for purpose.
I have now wasted over 40 mugs trying to get things to look right and I am slowly coming to the realisation that its not me, its the press.
I am going to email Coralgraph now and explain the situation to them, regardless of what I have done to the press (drilled two mounting holes) it looks to me like it is not fit for purpose.
I have now wasted over 40 mugs trying to get things to look right and I am slowly coming to the realisation that its not me, its the press.
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